The ⅛” guide on the PFAFF passport 3.0 presser foot for precision

Quilted coasters are a quick gift to make. In yesterday’s post, I used the stitch and flip method to easily construct the units for the curling rock block. In this post, I’ll use the ⅛” guide on the PFAFF passport 3.0 presser foot for precision to finish the coasters.

To finish the coasters I’ll be using the straight stitch – the basic sewing stitch that the passport 3.0 is programmed to start up with ready to use when you turn it on. I suggest a neutral thread color for sewing the coasters together.

To make the four curling rock blocks into coasters you will need a few more supplies:

4 – 5″ tall x 5½” wide pieces of fabric

4 – 5″ tall x 5½” wide pieces of  batting

The back of the coasters is your chance to choose fabric to match the recipient’s decor, use a holiday-themed print, or have fun and pick fabrics that could rival some of the curling outfits that you’ve seen on TV!

I use the envelope method to make the coasters. Start by making a coaster sandwich with the batting on the bottom, the backing right side up followed by the curling block right side down on the top.

Put a pin in each side to secure the layers together. To turn the coaster right side out I left a turning gap along the bottom edge of the curling rock block. I find it easier to leave a gap where there are no seams across the block – remember to backstitch when you start and stop sewing to make it even easier to pull the coaster through the opening.

I use the needle down function to keep the needle in the coaster fabric at all times. The red ¼” guide on the bobbin cover is long enough for me to see while sewing and lines up perfectly with the grooved line on presser foot 0A. Do you see the indented dot on the presser foot? It’s also a ¼” guide – when it lines up over the fabric I know I can turn the corner and maintain an accurate seam allowance.

To sew the coaster layers together, start along the curling rock bottom side and go around the entire coaster, remembering to leave a turning gap at the end.

When finished flip over the layers to make sure all three were caught in the seam. Then clip off the triangle seam allowance at each corner to make the turned corners round. Pull the coaster inside out and push out the corners with your finger or a skinny tool like a chopstick (I use a plastic letter opener.)

Finger press the turning gap closed. I like to put a pin in to secure the layers. I also start my topstitching along this edge of the coaster.

I sewed together all four of the coasters before doing my topstitching because I knew I wanted to change my thread colors. Topstitching is your chance to add some more personal detail to the curling rock coasters. I decided to use red thread on the red rock coasters and yellow on the yellow rock ones. You could do the same or choose a neutral color to blend into the background. I kept my bobbin thread neutral so that it would blend in on my coasters’ backing fabric.

I used the basic machine sewing stitch for my topstitching. The best part was discovering the little red dots on the presser foot are a ⅛” guide. I used the red dot to help me keep my topstitching line even and used the ¼” guide on the bobbin cover to double-check. Keeping my topstitch so close to the edge meant that I was sure my turning gap was closed and secure and wouldn’t come out in the wash!

Repeat to topstitch all four curling rock coasters, changing topstitching thread if desired.

The precision of the PFAFF machines is something you need to experience. My piecing is so precise and the finished coasters look so perfect! The passport 3.0 was a perfect partner in making these quick curling rock coasters. I hope you enjoyed the tutorial and made some for yourself – to give or to keep.