Yesterday I gathered the supplies and prepared the trinket box sections with Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch stabilizer and layers of HeatnBond Lite iron-on adhesive.
Constructing the box body
Fold and crease the 12″ layered square on each of the drawn lines to start giving the body of the box some shape.
The 4″ square in the very center is the bottom of the box. The 4″ squares that are directly touching the center square are the box sides.
With the lines on the outside so you can see them, fold two adjoining sides into position. The corner will form a triangle on the outside of the box.
Yesterday I drew the lines that indicate the location of the sides and base of the box. When I fold the corner, two of these will line up on top of one another.
Stitch on the line to create the side walls of the box. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitching.
Repeat for the other three corners.
The box looks quite strange at this point but don’t worry, you’re doing it correctly.
I’ll flatten the corners so half of the bulk goes towards one box side and the other half of the bulk folds towards the adjoining side.
Crease well and pin or clamp in place.
Repeat for the other three corners.
Use a sharp pair of fabric scissors to trim the extra points off so the top edge of the box is even all the way around.
The top edge of the box has many layers of fabric and stabilizer that could make it hard for an ordinary needle to stitch through. Rethread your machine with the size 100/16 SCHMETZ Super NonStick needle. It will easily sew through all the layers while giving beautiful quality stitching.
Using a straight stitch sew all the way around the top edge of the box.
This stitching doesn’t have to be perfect. Its only purpose is to hold the folded corners in place. Stay as close to the outside edge as possible so the decorative edge stitching will completely cover the straight stitches.
Next change to the decorative stitch foot and set your sewing machine to sew a satin stitch.
This is a very closely spaced zigzag. I used a width of 4 and a length of .5. On a mechanical sewing machine, this would be between 1 and the buttonhole on the length dial. Some computerized machines have a built-in satin stitch so I’d just have to push a button.
Sew around the top edge of the box. The left swing of the needle should go through all the layers while the right swing of the stitch should be just off the fabric. This will give a nice finished edge.
The satin stitch doesn’t have to completely cover the edge. I can go around a second time if more coverage is desired.
Notice how the glue from the Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch stabilizer and HeatnBond Lite simply flakes off the SCHMETZ Super NonStick needle.
The body of the box is complete.
The Sulky rayon thread looks lovely on the edge and the SCHMETZ Super NonStick needle made the construction fun and easy. I love the look of the Harbor Reflections fabric by Northcott.
Making the box lid
I could use the box just the way it is but I’ll take it one step further and make a lid to cover the treasures within.
I trimmed out the corners on the 7½” square for the lid to reduce the bulk and make it easy to sew together so I’ll change my needle back to the SCHMETZ Super NonStick needle size 80/12.
To form the sides of the lid, line up the edges of one corner where the excess bulk was trimmed away. Satin stitch from the outside edge to the top and back to the cut edge. You can turn the piece to go back down or simply use the machine’s reverse button.
The double stitching will give nice strong corners. Repeat for the other three corners.
Satin stitch around the outside edge of the lid to complete the lovely fabric trinket box.
My fabric trinket box is complete.
I hope you enjoyed making the fabric box as much as I did. The SCHMETZ Super NonStick needles made sewing through multiple fused layers easier than ever before.
Have fun making and filling your own boxes with all kinds of treasures both to keep and to give.
See you then.