2 beautiful applique techniques with the Husqvarna VIKING Jade 20

I’m very impressed with the straight stitch quality of the Husqvarna VIKING Jade 20, and I can’t wait to see how it performs for some applique stitches. I have two favorite methods of applique and will try them both today. Let’s get started!

I’ll start with an invisible applique stitch.

Here are my preparation steps:

• Turn the edges of the applique shape under as I’ve done with this circle.
• Use a water-soluble glue to secure the applique shape to the background.

materials

• bobbin-weight white thread for the bobbin
• 60-weight (thin) thread that matches my applique shape for the top.
• size 60/8 needle. I’m a fan of using small needles with thin threads. Remember, the needle threader will not work with that small needle, so I thread it by eye.

One other essential item is the presser foot. I love to use the optional Open Toe Presser Foot for all my applique.

A channel on the underside allows the decorative stitches to slide under without jamming, and the open front of the foot provides fantastic visibility into the small areas of your applique shapes. Remember, when purchasing optional feet, to check that they are the correct category for the Jade 20, a Category 6 machine.

Now, let’s get the Jade 20 set up. I started by winding a bobbin with the bobbin weight thread, which was super easy. If you noticed, the bobbin weight thread was on a cone, so I used an external thread stand.

I chose Stitch Number 5, which is the zigzag stitch.

I selected a stitch width of 1.5.

I started with a length of 3.0, but I found this to be a bit long, so I ended up settling on a length of 2.0. The length and width are things you must experiment with. When selecting the length and width of your stitches, consider these factors: skill, eyesight, fabric, applique shapes, thread weights, and personal preferences.

The orange lights beside the stitch width and length indicate that both are outside the default setting.  When I’m sewing, the screen will reflect the stitch number, and if I need to see the length or width, I simply touch the plus or minus, and the setting appears back on the screen. These functions are super easy to use.

The Jade 20 is now threaded, and the appropriate stitch settings are selected. The applique shape is ready, and it’s time to start stitching. Look how easy it is to see right to the needle using the Open Toe Presser Foot. It’s a must for machine applique.

I pull my bobbin thread to the top and place the applique shape so the needle falls in the appropriate spot. Don’t forget to lower the presser foot. Now, here’s something to note about the invisible applique stitch. We don’t want the stitches to show, so as the needle swings to the right of the zigzag, ensure the needle skims the edge of the applique shape but doesn’t touch it.

This positioning means that when the needle swings to the left of the zigzag stitch, 99% of the stitch is on the applique shape, so I use thin threads that match the applique shape. If the thread color is slightly lighter or darker, it’s not a huge issue – the stitches are tiny. Alternatively, you could use invisible thread but lower the top tension if you do.

Carefully stitch around the applique shape. Here are a couple of things to keep in mind. If you are working on a circle like in this example, pivot your work slightly after every 5 or 6 stitches, depending on the curve. Lift the presser foot lever slightly to raise the foot, pivot the fabric, lower the presser foot, and continue. It’s fast and easy to do. Your needle should be in the down position whenever you pivot.

The other thing to remember is that the foot pedal has a tap function. So if you stop and the needle is on the wrong side to pivot, simply tap on the foot pedal to advance the needle by half a stitch. It’s so easy. I love this feature and use it constantly, especially for applique.

Here’s one of my completed circles. If you look closely, you’ll see a few places where my stitch does not lie close to the applique shape. That’s because I didn’t pivot soon enough, and the stitch went away from the circle. But notice how 99% of that zigzag stitch rests on the applique shape. And when not magnified as in this photo, it’s invisible. Again, I shortened the stitch length as I thought this was a bit long.

Here’s the back of the applique. As I mentioned, I found this stitch length too long, so I shortened it. When I return to the start point, I simply stitch over the starting stitches by about a half-inch. I’m thrilled with the results of my machine-invisible applique with the Jade 20.

Now, I’ll look at my other favorite machine applique technique, raw edge. I like to finish my raw edges with various decorative stitches, and there are lots to choose from in Jade 20.

Here are my preparation steps:

• Trace the applique shapes onto the fusible web.
• Fuse the fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric and cut out the shapes.
• Using the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse the applique shape to the background.

materials

• bobbin-weight white thread for the bobbin
• 40-weight (machine embroidery weight) thread that matches my applique shape for the top. Contrasting threads also work nicely.
• size 80/12 needle

I use a Tear-A-Way Stabilizer for any wide decorative stitch, including a satin stitch. The stabilizer is essential to prevent your background from being pulled up. You’ll remove it after the stitch is complete.

For the blue flower center, I chose Stitch Number 45, the mossy satin stitch with two uneven edges. It’s one of my favorite applique stitches for raw edge applique.

Keeping the same methodology for the needle position as mentioned above, I stitched around the center of the flower. Because this stitch does not have a straight right-hand edge, I use the red center mark on the Open Toe Presser Foot to keep it lined up with the edge of the applique shape.

Then I selected the Satin Stitch – Stitch Number 27, changed the top thread (40-weight), and stitched around the flower’s outer edge. Be sure to pivot frequently, especially if the curve is tight. Don’t forget to use the foot pedal tap and add an extra stitch or two in the indentations to get complete coverage. A shape like this flower is a good one to practice on.

The more frequently you pivot, the smoother the stitching line will be!

And now it’s done, and it looks gorgeous! I love the stitch quality of the Jade 20. Remember, if your sewing machine has a built-in satin stitch like the Jade 20, you want to use that rather than a compressed zigzag. It’ll give you much better coverage.

Here’s a close-up of both stitches. WOW – I’m very impressed. Remember, you can modify the width and length of all the stitches; you’re not required to use the default settings. They are simply a starting point. Experiment!

All that remains is to remove the stabilizer from the back. As its name indicates, it’s super easy to tear it away.

And here’s the back of the piece. Notice that some of the top thread shows through to the back. That’s supposed to happen! Don’t adjust the tension to eliminate this. The top thread showing on the back is an indication of good tension for applique stitches, in particular, the satin-style stitches.

Well, I have to say that I’m very impressed. The Husqvarna VIKING Jade 20 is an entry-level machine, yet it performs amazingly well regarding stitch quality and features.

Be sure to come back tomorrow, as I have a binding to attach to a table runner, and you’ll see how easy it is to prepare the edges and sew the binding using the Husqvarna VIKING Jade 20.

Have a great day!

Ciao!!!

This is part 4 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 3: 2 ways to sew a perfect ¼” seam on the Husqvarna VIKING Jade 20

Go to part 5: Binding quilts with ease using the Husqvarna VIKING Jade 20