Piecing a quilt with Floating Stitches | Decorative and Constructive

Did you try out those 10 tips I provided yesterday for using embroidery mode on the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3? It never ceases to amaze me that despite what we already know or think we know we can sometimes run into trouble and learn new things! I love the flexibility of the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3, which offers such fantastic learning experiences and an easy way to resolve them, which is even better!

The release of the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3 was an opportunity to add a brand-new stitch category called Floating Stitches. They are unique because you can use them for decorative purposes or construct seams.

The satin stitch motifs ‘float’ on the project’s surface, hence the name Floating Stitches. There’s a connecting thread hidden on the back, regardless of which method you use.

Floating stitches as a decorative element or to construct two seams

I’ve had this project cut out for a while, and I figured since I was chatting about quilts this week, it would be the perfect time to get it out and sew it together.

So, let’s get started!

The cut strips for my Floating Stitches project

Since I was using a Floating Stich (with a larger seam allowance), I planned to cut the sizes of the pieces as I sewed. It’s best to keep the piecing simple when constructing a project with Floating Stitches – no curves or half-square triangles. You can, but it will take a lot of time to perfect the technique, and there are many other better block options. I chose a log cabin block with white on one side and green on the other.

I cut the strips to 2½”. You’ll also need a decorative thread for the top (40-weight embroidery thread) and a matching thread (50-weight cotton) in the bobbin. The recommended foot is the Decorative Stitch Foot B.

Supplies for the log cabin quilt

If you’ve never used Floating Stitches before and have no idea how to use them, guess what? In the JoyOS Advisor, you’ll find a tutorial on the two styles of Floating Stitches. How easy is that?

A tutorial on the Floating Stitches in the JoyOS Advisor

You’ll find a supply list (they’re different for each technique – the joined stitches do not require a stabilizer, while the folded ones do) and step-by-step instructions, including videos. So, if you need to refer back, it’s easy, and the JoyOS Advisor is very patient!

Notice there’s a second tab beside the instruction tab. It’s called Content, and touching that tab takes you directly to the Floating Stitch menu, which is a brilliant feature, and I use it all the time!

The tutorial for the floating stitches

I decided to cut the pieces as I went rather than use strips of fabric, which is another method to construct a log cabin block. I also decided to sew each seam separately rather than chain piece. Although I could’ve chain pieced, I preferred having each seam begin at the start of the stitch sequence.

I programmed the right side of the Husqvarna VIKING Multi-Function Foot Control for Stitch Restart. It makes it super easy to always start at the beginning of the sequence instead of where the sequence ended with the previous seam.

Programming the Multi-Function Foot Control

I held onto the top and bobbin thread to prevent the thread from nesting at the beginning of each seam. While the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3 has scissors, I often don’t use them because I prefer a bit of a tail on the top and bobbin that I can control. It’s what you get used to, and this is one of those times when my ‘old school habits’ come through.

Hold the top and bobbin threads to prevent thread nesting.

The seam allowance we’re using is greater than the standard ¼”, as the floating stitch is wider than a straight stitch. You can change the width and length of the stitch, but I chose to use the default settings.

The Edit Stitch Menu for the Floating Stitch

I used the edge of the Decorative Stitch Foot B as the guide. Actually, I used the opening for the feed teeth as the guide along which to place the edge of the fabric, which was just inside the edge of the B Foot.

Constructing the Floating Stitch seam using the Decorative Stitch Foot B

Here’s a closer look; you can just see the edge of the opening at the side of the presser foot.

Using the Feed Teeth opening as a guide for the seam allowance

Here’s the back of my first seam. I confess that the white fabric I chose was perhaps not the best for this project as it was thin, and there was little stability to support the Floating Stitches. However, it worked out just fine. I could’ve also taken a smaller seam allowance, but this works for me.

The back of the Floating Stitch seam

When you open it up, this is what it looks like. Wait! I don’t see anything!

Where are the Floating Stitches?

That’s because you need to give the fabric a bit of a pull, and VOILA – there are the Floating Stitches!!!

TaDa! – The Floating Stitches

Once I pressed the seam, I measured the length needed for the next piece. I didn’t precut the individual pieces as I knew they’d be slightly shorter than if I had used a straight stitch.

Measuring for the next strip length

I added another piece, and this is what it looks like on the back. Again, you can see that there was room for a smaller seam allowance, but I’m OK to have the extra support. You can see the connecting stitches between the blocks of satin stitches.

The wrong side of the Floating Stitches

Here’s the first of three rounds on the log cabin block. I love the look, and what a fun way to dress up a project. I need to be more cautious when pulling the fabric open as I see a few puckers in some areas, but that won’t be noticeable in the long run.

The first round on the log cabin block

When making a log cabin block, I like to check the size after each round to ensure the seam allowances are consistent. I used a square ruler to check, and everything looked amazing. Instead of the block being 6½” if I had pieced it traditionally, it’s 6″. That works for me.

Measuring the quilt block for accuracy

Now I’m off to add the next round. I debated whether to change the thread color at this point and whether to opt for a different floating stitch. There are 23 Floating Stitches on the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3. I decided it would look more cohesive if I used the same thread and stitch, but you could go wild!

The unfinished block measures 13″, much larger than I imagined. But then, I didn’t consider the block size before I started. I was going to make 16 blocks, but the quilt will be larger than I needed, so I opted to make a wall hanging with four blocks, and I’ll use the other 12 in another small quilt.

The unfinished log cabin block

Here are some of the other Floating Stitches. I already have ideas for more projects! I did these with the folding method, and I didn’t have the correct foot then, so the connecting stitch wasn’t always in the proper spot. Hence, you see a bit of a crease between the stitches.

Floating Stitch options

Here are my four blocks. Isn’t the effect of the Floating Stitches fabulous? It adds a lot of pizzazz to the quilt.

Four log cabin blocks using the Floating Stitches

Or should I arrange the blocks this way? I prefer this layout as the lines of Floating Stitches are more visible and create a pinwheel effect in the center. I’ll join the blocks using the same thread and the Floating Stitch. I’ll have to find a fabric for the border. Maybe I don’t need a border, as the dark green frames the piece.

Four log cabin blocks

Here’s a quick peek at how to use the Floating Stitches strictly for decorative purposes. Fold your fabric in half with the right sides together. Place a small strip of Tear-A-Way stabilizer under the fold.

Fabric folded right-side together to prepare for the Folded method of Floating Stitches

Use the Adjustable Stitch in Ditch Edge Joining Foot for IDF (Integrated Dual Feed). It has a guide down the center of the foot and a large opening to use with decorative stitches.

Stitch along the fold, keeping the fold of the fabric against the guide, which will prevent the connecting stitches from stitching on the fabric. It’s so easy to do with the Adjustable Stitch in Ditch Edge Joining Foot.

Using the Adjustable Stitch in Ditch Edge Joining Foot to stitch the Floating Stitches along the fold

Here’s what the Floating Stitches (folded) look like on the wrong side when stitched.

The wrong side of the Floating Stitches (folded)

I use my Husqvarna VIKING Applique Scissors to trim off the excess Tear-A-Way.

Trimming the excess Tear-A-Way stabilizer

Here is the Floating Stitch (folded). I’ve learned not to crease the fold, even with your fingernail. If the crease is too great, it’s challenging to remove. I used a finger crease with the top two rows, and the crease is still there after multiple ironings. So, it is best to fold the fabric and hold it in place, but don’t crease it.

The Floating Stitches (folded)

Here’s a tip for adding a border to your quilt. Stitch the sides (or top and bottom) to your quilt using a Floating Stitch. When adding the two remaining pieces, start with a straight stitch until you get to the part that touches the main part of the quilt. Then switch to the Floating Stitch, and you’re good!

Floating Stitches on a quilt border

Wow – there are so many amazing things you can create or decorate using Floating Stitches on the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3. Yes – this stitch takes more time and thread than if you stitch with a straight stitch, but this is our hobby! We should be enjoying the process and getting the most use of our valuable sewing tools, like the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3.

Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3

Tomorrow, I’ll check out an embroidery technique called Patchwork in the Hoop, so be sure to come back and see how easy it is to create!!

Have a super day!!

Ciao!

This is part 4 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 3: 10 TIPS: Using embroidery mode on the HV DESIGNER EPIC 3

Go to part 5: Patchwork-in-the-Hoop technique on the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3

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