Choosing the right SCHMETZ needle size for cotton | everyday sewing

This past July, I took the opportunity to share what I learned about SCHMETZ needles — one of the most trusted names in the sewing world. I focused on the essential information that every sewist, whether beginner or experienced, should know: from understanding needle types and sizes to knowing when and why to switch needles during a project. Having the right needle can make all the difference in your stitching results. Here is the first post in a series of five to review the July SCHMETZ posts.

Some of the tools I’ll use this week:

SCHMETZ Needles

Gütermann Threads

When it comes to choosing the correct needle, the first thing I always consider is the fabric I’ll be piecing. For me, that’s usually an easy answer — about 95% of the time, I’m sewing with cotton fabrics. The other 5%? That’s when I’m either making a t-shirt quilt, which brings knits into the mix, or experimenting with garment sewing, where different fabric types come into play.

One of the most important questions I ask myself is: What size needle should I use? To answer that, I first look at my thread choice. The finer the thread, the smaller the needle eye needs to be. Using the wrong combination can lead to thread shredding, skipped stitches, or unnecessary frustration with the machine. What follows are examples based on what I typically use.

• If I’m sewing with Gütermann Cotton 60wt, I’ll usually reach for a SCHMETZ #1718 Universal Needles Carded – 75/11 or SCHMETZ #1709 Universal Needles Carded – 80/12.
• If I’m using Gütermann Cotton 50wt, I might go with an SCHMETZ #1709 Universal Needles Carded – 80/12 or even a SCHMETZ #1710 Universal Needles Carded 90/14, depending on the project and layers involved.

Earlier, I gave a couple of needle size options based on the thread weight — and that’s intentional. There isn’t always one clear-cut answer when it comes to needle selection. I’ve used the same thread on two different projects, only to find myself reaching for two different needle sizes. Why? Because not all cotton fabrics are made the same. Some are thicker, more tightly woven, or even treated differently during manufacturing — and all of that affects how the needle interacts with the fabric.

That’s why it’s essential to stay flexible and responsive. If something feels off while you’re stitching — whether it’s skipped stitches, snagging, or tension issues — your needle might be the culprit.

For the go-go-go quilter who doesn’t want to stop mid-project to hunt for the “right” needle, I highly recommend keeping a variety of SCHMETZ needle sizes on hand. Investing in a few multi-size packs means a quilter is always prepared to switch things up as needed — no interruptions, just smooth sewing.

Now, for the new quilter and sewist who are just getting set up, I recommend getting SCHMETZ assorted packs such as these: SCHMETZ #1711 Universal Needles Carded – Assorted 70-90 – 5 count and SCHMETZ #1850 Costume Needles Pack Carded – Assorted – 9 count.

Choosing the right combination of thread and needle might seem like a small detail, but it has a significant impact on stitch quality and overall sewing ease. The right needle can make the difference between a smooth stitch line and a frustrating session at the machine.

If sewing with cotton and using Gütermann Threads 50wt or 60wt, here are a few SCHMETZ needle sizes I recommend keeping on hand:

SCHMETZ #1718 Universal Needles Carded – 75/11

SCHMETZ #1709 Universal Needles Carded – 80/12.

SCHMETZ #1710 Universal Needles Carded 90/14

These sizes cover most cotton sewing projects, from piecing to quilting, and give me the flexibility to adjust when fabrics or layers vary.

Tomorrow, I will delve deeper and share additional uses for SCHMETZ needles. Stay tuned!

This is part 1 of 5 in this series