Mastering Sulky and UNIQUE stabilizers for sewing & machine embroidery

Greetings, everyone! It’ll be a fascinating week as we discuss one of my favorite topics. OK, I have many favorite topics, but I hope to clear up a lot of confusion about stabilizers!

A while back, I posted a quick overview of the difference between batting, interfacing, stabilizers, and fusible web on QUILTsocial. That same week, I provided an in-depth overview of the properties of fusible webs and where and how to use them.

This week, I’ll be using Sulky and UNIQUE stabilizers to provide insight into which one(s) to use when. I’ll discuss using stabilizers in sewing mode and machine embroidery.

If you choose the correct stabilizer, it’s never (or very rarely) visible in the finished product. Sometimes, the stabilizer must remain in the project to provide stability even after the stitching process, but it’s discreetly on the underside of the stitching. Most stabilizers are often completely removed.

Using the incorrect stabilizer will result in puckers, tucks, tunneling, and misformed stitches. Sometimes, the wrong choice comes from a lack of knowledge, but it can also be from trying to find the cheapest solution to stabilize your project. The bottom line is that your project will lack a polished look if you don’t use the correct stabilizer.

Hopefully, after following along this week, you’ll better understand why using the correct stabilizer is essential.

There are four main categories of stabilizers based on how they are REMOVED. Within each category are special stabilizer properties and weights; we’ll discuss each category in greater detail later this week.

While the Sulky products are color-coded to help you select the correct product, reading each package to identify the recommended usage is essential.

In addition to the color coding, each category has a symbol representing its removal method:

• Red – removed with heat
• Green – removed by tearing
• Purple – removed with scissors
• Blue – removed with water

Within each category, there are multiple sizes. Some products are available by the bolt. Others come in a handy resealable tube in a variety of widths, including 8″, 12″, and 20″. The lengths can vary from 5 to 12 yards. You’ll also find small quantities in one-yard or three-yard packages and, in some instances, sheets of 8½” x 11″.

Since there are so many varieties, having a package of each would be nice! Test them out and then determine which products you need in larger economy sizes and which you need in smaller amounts.

If you’re using the stabilizer for machine embroidery, the size you buy is determined by the embroidery hoops you use. Some of the products are toppers (more on that later this week), and you don’t need large pieces. Remember that you may not find all the sizes available in all the products. Below is a sampling of the various sizes.

As I said, all the available options can be confusing, but read through the entire week, and you’ll soon be an expert the next time you shop for a stabilizer.

And there’s one more option that I want to let you know about. Most stabilizers are white, but the odd one is black, and reading the label will show you that.

Take some time when shopping. Don’t just buy because it’s on sale; don’t just grab what you think is the correct product. Get familiar with the labels and the properties of each removal method, and check the quantity in the package.

TIPS for stabilizers

1. Label: The stabilizer packaging is color-coded, including a symbol identifying the removal method. The instructions are also on the label. It’s critical to keep the label with the product. Many of the products look remarkably similar without the label, so keep them labeled to make good use of them. If the packaging isn’t resealable, use a zippered plastic bag and keep the label with the stabilizer.
2. Experiment: Don’t be afraid to experiment with the various products and keep notes on what worked best and what didn’t. Keep a small sample swatch to help you figure out what product to use and when. Use page protectors or some other form of organization to help you with your next project.
3. Storage: Some water-soluble stabilizers must be kept in a sealed plastic bag to prevent breakdown from high or low humidity levels. Read the instructions to ensure you are storing your products correctly.
4. Storage: I group my stabilizers by category. Then, when I need to find a particular type of stabilizer, it’s easy to look in that bin and choose the appropriate stabilizer for my needs.
5. Use: Do NOT skimp on the stabilizer or use a hack because it’s cheaper. The results will not be the same, and you’ll be disappointed and risk ruining your project.

I spend a lot of time working on samples, but when I need to select a stabilizer, it’s easy to know which one to pick. More importantly, I know how the products work, and the result will be fantastic! Nothing is worse than starting to stitch on your good fabric or a ready-made garment, only to discover that you did not use the correct stabilizer!

Be sure to follow along this week as I’ll explore the four categories of Sulky stabilizers and miscellaneous products. I’ll have lots of samples of the good and the bad to help you make better decisions regarding stabilizer use. Remember that I’ll be sharing examples from both sewing and embroidery.

Have a great day!

Ciao!

This is part 1 of 5 in this series