Sewing with the HUSQVARNA VIKING Topaz 55Q: precision & possibilities

We’ve spent a couple of days checking out all the fantastic features of the HUSQVARNA VIKING Topaz 55Q, and now it’s time to sew on it. I’m eager to try out these features and see how easy it is to sew a variety of projects. It’s always good to check everything out BEFORE you attempt to sew.

The first thing I want to try is piecing, and I happen to have some quilt blocks already cut. I get a chuckle when I hear people say that they need to sew their project on the same machine to get the same ¼” seam allowance. Hmmm — that doesn’t make sense to me at all. Case in point, I started sewing these quilt blocks in 2016, and since then, I’ve sewn the blocks on numerous sewing machines; all of the blocks are the correct size, regardless of which machine I used. The good news? There are four blocks left to piece!

I’m consistent in the type and weight of thread I use for piecing, and I’m 100% consistent with the presser foot I use. Those are way more important than which machine you sew with. That’s why having a smaller sewing machine, like the Topaz 55Q, that you can take to sewing days or quilt retreats is great. Keep the large machine at home and travel light.

I popped the (included) Quilter’s  ¼” Piecing Foot P on the Topaz 55Q and sewed one block together. By consistently using the same piecing foot, I’ll always maintain the same seam allowance, regardless of which machine I use.

When the block was together, it was precisely 6½”. I didn’t have to fuss – I trust my HUSQVARNA VIKING machines and their feet! And my seam allowances are always perfect. Note that it’s more important that the block components and the entire block be the correct size, rather than focusing on the seam allowance. Once I found the Quilter’s ¼” Piecing Foot P, I’ve never had any issues with my blocks being the incorrect size. I appreciate the precision of the HUSQVARNA VIKING machines.

Next on the list of things to do was some paper piecing. I’m moving into the world of using the folded freezer paper method. I reviewed the technique, and I thought that it would speed up the process and increase accuracy by using the Edge/Joining Foot, or you could use the Adjustable Stitch in the Ditch foot.

These two feet have a guide in the center, and the idea is that the guide runs along the edge of whatever you’re stitching, with the needle following exactly behind the guide. I wasn’t 100% happy with the needle position, as I wanted the needle to be just slightly to the right of the guide, so when I positioned the guide beside the fold, the stitching would NOT perforate the paper.

Did I mention that I can sew a lot faster by allowing the foot to guide the seam placement?

It was extremely easy to adjust the needle position using the Stitch Positioning function, which is on the screen beside the Stitch Length on the home screen. I moved the needle two positions to the right and shortened the stitch length because I like to sew with a stitch length of 2 for all my piecing. Yes – even though I’m paper piecing, this freezer paper method allows me to sew the pieces without sewing through the paper, so I want my usual stitch length.

When the background color behind a number is different, I know they are not the default settings. To return to the default settings, I use the Plus and Minus keys until the background returns to white, as shown for the Thread Tension setting.

A note about Stitch Positioning: When using a straight stitch, there’s no width to adjust, so the Positioning option is always visible. If you choose a decorative stitch that allows you to change the width, then you can toggle between Position and Width settings. There are 29 needle positions when using a straight stitch. The number of needle positions diminishes based on the stitch width, as the two combined cannot exceed 7 mm.

Look at how even that seam is, and it’s lying perfectly along the fold of the freezer paper. Using the Edge/Joining foot and this folded freezer paper technique for paper piecing is a game-changer for me.

Another technique I always test is appliqué. I love machine appliqué – it’s so much faster than hand, so I want a very nice appliqué stitch. I’m using the Open Toe Appliqué Foot.

There’s an entire menu – the B Menu – Appliqué with many options for machine appliqué. Alternatively, you can select any stitch from the many other menus to suit your project. Remember that adjusting the width and length of a stitch can provide you with many different options.

Look at that gorgeous Satin Stitch. You can’t beat a satin stitch over a compressed zigzag. There are three default stitch widths, and each one can be modified if desired. Even and regular pivoting is the key to beautiful corners, points, and curves. With the Exclusive Sensor System (Sensor Foot Lift) and the Needle Stop Up/Down, it’s a breeze to pivot after every stitch if you like. And don’t forget to tap that foot pedal if you want to advance by half a stitch!

I used another, more decorative satin stitch from the B-Applique menu for the edge of the yellow circle. It’s gorgeous, and I must try that on another project. It’s so easy to stitch, and the results are beautiful!

Another task I enjoy trying when exploring a new sewing machine is applying a binding completely with the sewing machine. This quilt is made of flannel and is quite thick; the binding is also made of flannel, adding to the thickness of the seams. I had zero issues applying the first round with the Quilter’s ¼” Piecing Foot P. The stitches are nicely formed, even, and there are zero skipped stitches. When I reached the corners, I pressed the Presser Foot Up/Extra Lift function twice to create extra space for positioning the corner with the many layers under the presser foot.

This binding is 2¾” wide, so I’m giving it a bit wider seam allowance to allow for the quilt to fill the binding when it gets folded over on the second step.

Alternatively, I could have used the Interchangeable Dual Feed Foot to sew the binding on.

For the final round, I’m using a matching thread for the binding (needle) and the backing (bobbin). I’m also using the Left-Edge Top Stitch Foot to sew (applique) the binding on. The Left-Edge Top Stitch foot helps keep the presser foot level, preventing skipped or misaligned stitches.

I’ve touched on a few basic sewing tasks. However, there’s so much more you can do if you explore the decorative stitches, which are great for applique, decorating quilt blocks, embellishing table runners, sashing, cushions, and more. In total, the Topaz 55Q features 470 stitches, which are organized into logical menus, making them easy to explore.

While you might be familiar with most of those categories, the five categories at the end likely contain stitches you are not familiar with. The first one is J-Theme stitches. These work in conjunction with the Reverse button and can provide some very cool effects. Each of the four stitches is technically one stitch sequence, and each time you want to move to the next stitch, you press the Reverse function. If in doubt, you’ll find a tutorial in the JoyOS Advisor on how to use these stitches.

Here’s an example of the two Theme Stitches.

Next is the K – Single Motifs menu, and that’s precisely what these are. A single motif that you can stitch on labels, use as decorative elements, and much more.

Here’s an example of the first four stitches positioned to create a face.

Next is the L-Specialty Stitch Menu, where you’ll find stitches that work with some of the presser feet I mentioned earlier, such as Candlewicking, the Three-Hole Yarn foot, and others.

Wait – there’s even stitches for sewing on sequins!

The following menu is the M-Tapering Menu, and all the stitches in this menu can be tapered with multiple angles at the start, the end, or both ends. This option is ideal if you want mitered corners for quilt labels or decorative elements on napkins, quilt blocks, and other items.

And the final menu of decorative stitches is the N-Pictogram menu. These elements can be combined using the Sequence tool to create some very unique shapes and designs.

Here’s an example of a flower created with some of the Pictogram stitches. And there’s a tutorial in the JoyOS Advisor to help you get started!

WAIT – I just got a notification on the Creativate blog about getting inspired with the Decorative Stitches. How timely is that!

Speaking of a new decorative stitch on the Topaz 55Q, here’s a stitchout of the tassel stitch. You can cut the edge of the stitches or not.

If you feel overwhelmed and unsure how to start playing with some of those stitches, remember that the JoyOS Advisor has tutorials to assist you in learning how to stitch these decorative stitches. Be sure to check that out!

It’s amazing what you can do with these decorative stitches, combined with some of the accessory presser feet; you can pretty much create anything your brain can conceive!

I’m very impressed with the HUSQVARNA VIKING Topaz 55Q, and I hope you are too! Tomorrow, I’ll be checking out that last category of accessory feet and some of the settings on the Topaz 55Q as we explore the options for quilting!

Have a great day!

Ciao!!

This is part 4 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 3: Topaz 55Q accessories & threading tips to boost your sewing setup