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Why Basting Makes Purse Assembly Easier and More Accurate

by Christine Baker

Yesterday on QUILTsocial, I showed you 3 ways to make pockets and to make the process easier, I used lots of amazing products such as CLOVER 2501 – Silk Pins (Boxed) – 36mm (138″), OMNIGRID Ruler – 6″ x 24″ (15.2 x 61cm), and an OLFA RTY-2/GP5 – Printed Handle Rotary Cutter 45mm. Today is my last post of the week, and it’s time to finish Marion’s new purse. All the pieces of the bag have been made, so all I have to do is sew them together.

In yesterday’s post, I showed you how I basted the linings to the outside pockets. To baste on my sewing machine, I set the length to 4.5mm. This makes stitches close enough to hold things together while also being easy to remove if needed.

Basting pieces together makes them easier to handle, keeps the layers from shifting and eliminates the need for pins that may get in the way later in assembly.

Two pockets lay on top of a grey pressing mat. The green lining and the basting stitch around the outside edge are visible.

Baste the outside edge of the lining to the quilted outside pieces of the purse.

I’ll also baste the side/bottom panel to its lining, with wrong sides together.

The front and back of a purse panel are visible on a grey pressing mat. The outside of the panel is black with small flowers, and the inside is pale green

Baste the side/bottom panel to its lining.

Sew in the top zipper

Now, I’ll use CLOVER 2501 – Silk Pins (Boxed) – 36mm (138″) to line up the zipper along the top edge of one of the outside panels of the purse with right sides together. Since it’s curved, I’ll use lots of pins to keep it in place.

A hand holds a piece of black fabric with a zipper pinned to its top edge. A piece of light green fabric is seen in the background, lying on a green cutting mat.

Pin the zipper right sides together with the top edge of the outside purse panel.

Now I’ll use some UNIQUE QUILTING Clever Clips Small – 12 pcs to layer the lining right side down on top of the zipper. I’ll baste these together with a ⅛” seam, and then, if that seam looks good, I’ll sew it with a regular stitch ¼” in from the edge of the zipper.

A hand holds a green piece of lining clipped to a zipper and a second piece of fabric. Pins can also be seen along this top edge, and a green cutting mat is in thebackground.

Pin the zipper in place and then clip the lining on top.

Topstitch

After sewing the two sides of the zippers with the outside panels and linings, I’ll use my OLISO PROTM TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron – Tula PinkTM on a UNIQUE QUILTING Wool Pressing Mat – 18″ x 24″ – Grey to press the seam, and then I’ll topstitch using matching thread.

A hand holds a purse panel with a zipper sewn into the top edge; a second panel lies on a green cutting board in the background.

Press the seam along the zipper and then topstitch.

Baste the outside pockets to the panels

Now I’ll baste the two big outside pockets to the outside pockets. Since there are many layers of fabric and interfacing, I’ll use UNIQUE QUILTING Clever Clips Large – 12pcs to hold everything in place.

The front and back panels of a black purse, with pockets clipped to them with green clips, sit on top of a green cutting mat.

Baste the pockets onto the front and back panels, using large clips to hold everything in place.

Make the strap

I’ll use the same technique I demonstrated in my QUILTsocial post 6 easy steps to making a strong strap with webbing for a crossbody bag on August 12, 2024 to make the strap for Marion’s purse. I’ll cover the CREATIV DÉCOR Webbing 25mm x 1.2m (1″ x 114yd) – White with the black fabric, and I’ll reuse the rectangular ring and sliding buckle from Marion’s original purse.

Now, I’ll baste the two ends of the strap to the ends of the top zipper.

A hand is shown holding the corner of a tote bag. Purple clips hold the seam together. A green cutting mat is visible in the background.

Baste the ends of the strap to the purse.

Sew the three purse panels together

Now I’ll sew the front and back panels to the side/bottom panel. There are three layers of interfacing and at least four layers of fabric at some points along this seam, so you can see why basting the separate sections together first was essential. If I hadn’t done that, this part of the assembly would be ‘impossible’. I’ll use the large clips again to keep everything lined up.

A hand holds the edge of a purse that is inside out. Large green clips hold the purse's layers together before sewing. A green cutting mat is visible in the background.

Sew the front and back panels to the side/bottom panel.

Cover the seams with bias tape

My inside seams are a little messy. I had initially thought that I would just clip them about ¼” wide and then just zig-zag over them, but the bias tape that I removed from the original bag is in excellent condition and looks like it will cover the seams quite nicely.

I’ll sew one side down, right sides together with the lining, and then I’ll fold it over to the other side and topstitch. With all these layers, this isn’t an easy task, but it turned out ok.

A hand holds the edge of a purse that is inside out to show the black bias tape that has been sewn over the inside seams. A green cutting mat is visible in the background.

Cover the inside seams of the purse with bias tape.

Turn the right side out

Now, I’ll turn the purse right side out by pulling the bag through the top zipper. I’ll push out the edges to make the corners nice, and the last little job I’ll do is sew some fun polka dot ribbon onto the zipper pulls. Here’s the finished purse.

A black tote bag hangs from its strap against the corner of a grey brick building. The purse fabric features tiny flowers throughout and green ribbon zipper pulls.

The finished purse featuring ribbon pulls on the zippers.

I’m so happy with this finished purse, and I think Marion will be amazed at how much it looks like her original! Now that I have a pattern, I can make this purse again. I need to add some new zippers and hardware, and I could try out some different fabric combinations!

The products that I used to sew this purse made the job so easy. Still, then again, I use my CLOVER 2501 – Silk Pins (Boxed) – 36mm (138″), OMNIGRID Ruler – 6″ x 24″ (15.2 x 61cm), OLFA RM-MG – 24″ x 36″ Double Sided Rotary Mat, OLFA RTY-2/GP5 – Printed Handle Rotary Cutter 45mm, UNIQUE QUILTING Clever Clips Small – 12 pcs and OLISO PROTM TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron – Tula PinkTM for almost every project I make. The BOSAL In-R-Form Unique Sew-In Foam Stabilizer – 45.7 x 147.3 cm (18″ x 58″) gave the purse great structure without being impossible to sew through, and the SEW EASY Freezer Paper for Quilting and Applique – 12.1m x 38.1cm (13.2yd x 15) made great, reusable pattern pieces.

I hope you enjoyed following along as I made this beautiful purse. See you next time on QUILTsocial!

This is part 5 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 4: 3 Ways to Sew Pockets for a Quilted Purse

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