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2 days to sew a fabric trinket box

by Julie Plotniko

Yesterday I began an exploration of what makes the new SCHMETZ Super NonStick needle so special and tested its abilities by making a pair of applique tea towels. Today I’ll prepare the pieces to make a lovely fabric trinket box. Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch and HeatnBond Lite will really help to show off the capabilities of the SCHMETZ super nonstick needles. I’ve used fabric from the Harbor Reflections collection by Northcott to lend an artistic flair.

A dimensional fabric trinket box

I’ve always found little boxes charming, even more so when made from pretty fabric. My fabric box will be 4″ square x 4″ deep, just a nice size to hold a variety of special treasures.

materials

  • SCHMETZ Super NonStick needles size 80/12 and 100/16 – The nonstick coating will help the needle effortlessly pierce the multiple layers of fabric, fusible web and stabilizer I’ll be using. By preventing the build up of glue residue it will minimize the need to clean the needle to prevent thread breakage.

SCHMETZ Super NonStick needles sizes 80/12 and 100/16

SCHMETZ Super NonStick needles sizes 80/12 and 100/16

  • 1 pkg Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch – This cut-away permanent stabilizer is used to provide heavy, permanently fused stability for a wide variety of projects such as machine embroidery, purses, clothing and home decor. Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch will add the perfect amount of body to my trinket box.

Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch

fabric

other

cutting instructions

  • From the fabric for the box body – cut two 12½” squares
  • From the fabric for the lid – cut two 8″ squares
  • From the Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch – cut two 12½” and two 8″ squares
  • From the HeatnBond Lite – cut one 12½” square and one 8″ square.

I’ve cut the pieces for the lid and body of the box slightly larger than needed so I can trim them to size once all the layers are fused together.

Note: Save all the leftover pieces of fabric, Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch and HeatnBond Lite. They’ll be used later this week. 

The fabric pieces needed to construct one box

Preparing the pieces

Iron a 12½” square of Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch to the wrong side of one 12½” squares of fabric. Use the UNIQUE applique mat on top to protect your iron. Take care to ensure there are no bubbles and the entire piece is fused in place.

Repeat for the second 12½” square of fabric.

Iron an 8″ square of Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch to the wrong side of each of the 8″ squares of fabric.

Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch is ironed to the wrong side of fabric

Position the 12½” square of HeatnBond Lite with the textured side against the wrong side of one of the 12½” squares of fabric that has been prepared with Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch.

Iron on the paper side of the HeatnBond Lite and the bumpy side will be against the Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch.

Use a dry iron on medium heat and press the HeatnBond Lite in place with an up and down motion. It only takes a few seconds to form a permanent bond. Allow the fabric to cool then remove the paper from the HeatnBond Lite.

Place the second 12½” square of fabric on top, wrong sides together.

With a dry iron and a UNIQUE applique mat on top, fuse the two squares of stiffened fabric together. The resulting prepared square will be fabric (right side up), Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch, HeatnBond Lite, Sulky Fuse ‘n Stitch, fabric (right side down).

Trim a little off each side of the fused fabric sandwich so it measures 12″ square. A 12½” square quilting ruler and a rotary cutter will help to trim evenly.

Repeat the process to layer and fuse the 8″ squares together. Trim to 7½” square.

All layers have been fused together for the body of the box

I will draw some lines on the lid and body sections of the box to help me know where to fold and where to sew.

The purple tip of the UNIQUE 2 in 1 marking pen is the perfect tool for creating the fabric box. The marks will simply disappear over a period of a few hours eliminating the need to remove them later. This is particularly helpful as I’ll be marking the outside of the box.

On the 12″ layered square draw a line from edge to edge 4″ in and parallel to one side. Repeat for the other three sides. I have drawn nine equal 4″ squares indicating where to fold for the bottom, sides and corners of the box.

The box body marked for construction

On the 7½” square draw a line from edge to edge 1½” in and parallel to one side. Repeat for the other three sides.

This time I have created a 4½” square in the center surrounded by four 1½” x 4½” rectangles with four 1½” squares in the corners.

The 4½” square in the center is the top of the box. It needs to be ½” larger than the opening of the box body in order to fit over the top.

The box lid marked for construction

I’ll trim off the extra bulk from the corners of the box lid only. Use sharp sewing scissors to carefully cut out the 1½” squares drawn in the four corners of the 7½” prepared square.

Trim the corners of the box lid to reduce the bulk

I’ve gathered the supplies and prepared all the pieces for a cute fabric trinket box.

Are you excited to see how SCHMETZ Super NonStick needles will handle the challenge of all those fused layers? I know I am.

Come back tomorrow to complete the fabric trinket box. Be prepared to have fun!

This is part 2 of 5 in this series.

Go to part 1: Quilting with the new SCHMETZ Super NonStick needles

Go to part 3: SCHMETZ Super NonStick needles make sewing a fabric trinket box a breeze

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