Best SCHMETZ needle sizes for 30wt & 12wt Gütermann Threads

Yesterday, I talked about how to choose the right SCHMETZ needle size for cotton fabrics.

Today, I’m playing with SCHMETZ #1778 Universal Needles Carded – 100/16 and SCHMETZ #1728 Universal Needles Carded – 110/18.

Again, today, what size needle should I use? Time to look at my thread choice first. I’m using Gütermann Cotton 30wt.

Yesterday I wrote about using SCHMETZ Universal Needles 75/11, SCHMETZ #1709 Universal Needles 80/12 and SCHMETZ Universal Needles 90/14 when using Gütermann Cotton 60wt or  Gütermann Cotton 50wt. Then, which needles to use with a 30wt thread? Consider using SCHMETZ Universal Needles 100/16 and SCHMETZ Universal Needles 110/18.

Typically, when using a 50wt or 60wt thread, it’s for piecing in quilting or garment construction. In contrast, a 30wt thread is noticeably thicker and is most often used for decorative stitching. This heavier thread stands out visually, making it perfect for adding bold, defined stitches to quilt tops or embellishments on clothing. Because of its weight, a larger needle is better.

In this photo, I used a SCHMETZ Universal Needles 100/18 with the 30wt thread to sew a double stitch.

Give me the chance to play, and I will. This time, I wanted to try a stitch that resembled the kind you’d find on a baseball. The piece of leather I used was very pliable, which made it perfect for experimenting. To handle the thickness of both the 30wt thread and the leather, I chose a SCHMETZ 100/16 needle. The needle performed beautifully, piercing the leather cleanly without skipping stitches or causing any tension issues. It was a fun test, and the result gave the look and feel I was hoping for.

One needle I’ve yet to try is the SCHMETZ #1779 Universal Needles Carded – 120/19. Why would I want to? Well—why not? Imagine pairing it with a bold, heavy thread like Gütermann 12wt. A thread that thick definitely requires a needle with a large eye to pass through smoothly without shredding or breaking. While a 110/18 needle is generally suitable for 12wt thread, I’d be curious to see how the 120/19 performs, especially when stitching through thicker fabrics or multiple layers.

Both yesterday and today, I’ve shared which needle I’d choose depending on the weight of the thread I’m using—specifically when working with Gütermann Threads. Matching the correct needle size to the thread weight is key to smooth stitching. Here’s a quick breakdown of my preferred pairings:

SCHMETZ #1718 Universal Needles Carded – 75/11 Gütermann threads 60wt

SCHMETZ #1709 Universal Needles Carded – 80/12 Gütermann threads 50wt or 60wt

SCHMETZ #1710 Universal Needles Carded – 90/14 Gütermann threads 50wt

SCHMETZ #1778 Universal Needles Carded – 100/16 Gütermann threads 30wt

SCHMETZ #1728 Universal Needles Carded – 110/18 Gütermann threads 30wt or 12wt

SCHMETZ #1779 Universal Needles Carded – 120/19 Gütermann threads 12wt

Each needle size offers a slightly different result, especially when working with various fabric types or multiple layers. The finer needles (75/11 to 90/14) are perfect for piecing and general sewing with lighter threads, while the larger sizes (100/16 to 120/19) shine when working with thicker threads or decorative stitching. It’s all about finding the right combination to bring a project to life.

Tomorrow, I’ll share some of my ideas on when to use twin needles. Join me!

This is part 2 of 5 in this series

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