Essential tools for machine embroidery | get started with the right supplies

What did you think about yesterday’s post? Did you realize you could use an embroidery machine in many ways for your quilts?

I’m using the Husqvarna VIKING Designer Epic 3 this week to chat about machine embroidery and quilting. It’ll be such a fun week, and I can’t wait to share all this information with you.

Today, it’s all about the tools and supplies you need for machine embroidery. So, if you are new to machine embroidery or are considering purchasing an embroidery machine (say YES!), this will be very helpful. If you’ve been around for a while, read the information – you may discover something new!

Husqvarna VIKING Designer Epic 3 with embroidery unit

To start with machine embroidery, you need an embroidery machine with an embroidery unit. It’s an incredible tool, and you won’t regret it!

First, you should dig out the User’s Guide, where you’ll find diagrams of the included accessories. If you have no clue what they are, the first part of the User’s Guide will assist you in understanding what the accessories are. You can always check out QUILTsocial, as I’ve discussed the Designer Epic 3 several times, and there’s great information in the blog posts.

You’ll also find information about the Embroidery Edit and the Stitch-Out screens, the two most important screens. You MUST become familiar with all the functions on both pages to get the most from your embroidery machine!

The User’s Guide

You need a presser foot for machine embroidery. The Designer Epic 3 uses a hopping style called the Sensor Q Foot. While there are floating feet for machine embroidery, this is the one I always use. I love how it works, and I won’t use anything else. Some people find it a bit difficult to put on (it’s a tight fit), but after a few times, it’s all good. Ensure that the foot is TIGHTLY attached to the presser foot bar, as you do NOT want it coming off in the middle of an embroidery. Do not over-tighten. I use my screwdriver to tighten that screw.

The Sensor Q Foot

Let’s talk about the stitch plate. The Designer Epic 3 has two – the decorative stitch plate with an oval opening for the 37 different needle positions (straight stitch) and the Straight Stitch Plate. Which one should you use for machine embroidery? Use the single stitch plate, as the smaller opening provides better support for the formation of stitches. I use the Straight Stitch Plate 99% of the time for all my work on the Designer Epic 3 and ONLY use the decorative stitch plate if the needle moves out of the center position.

I love that there are sensors in these stitch plates, so the Designer Epic 3 will NOT allow you to select a decorative stitch or move your needle out of the center position if the Straight Stitch Plate is on! How cool is that?

Not to get too technical, but the embroidery unit uses CNC (Computer Numerical Control) technology. That means the embroidery arm moves the HOOP while the needle stays stationary! Did you know that? Hence, use that Straight Stitch Plate for quilting, embroidery, piecing, etc.

The Straight Stitch Plate

Let’s talk about embroidery hoops. The Designer Epic 3 comes with FOUR hoops ranging from 120 by 120mm to 260 by 465mm, so there’s a good range of sizes to get started. There’s a new embroidery hoop attachment for the Designer Epic 3, and these hoops will ONLY work on the Designer Epic 3. However, with a hoop adaptor (included), you can use most of the “legacy” hoops. Don’t misplace that adapter! I LOVE the NEW attachment system. It’s so easy to attach and remove the embroidery hoops. It’s advantageous when doing machine embroidery applique, which requires frequently removing and reattaching the embroidery hoops for trimming.

Two of the included hoops

Now for a quick lesson on machine embroidery hoops. You won’t notice this on the 120 by 120mm hoop, but it’s evident on the 240 by 150mm hoop that it’s NOT symmetrical. A new design for the Designer Epic 3 hoops provides more strength and stability. The larger the hoops and the more creative we get, the more stability is required. The new design makes it harder to insert the inner part incorrectly, which I’ll elaborate on in a minute.

These are traditional two-part hoops. A clip on the bottom right allows you to “open” the outer hoop, making it easier to hoop thicker materials. Once the fabric (and stabilizer) are secure, you can close the clip and finger-tighten the screw. If you need extra room, you can loosen that screw, but be careful as it can come apart. It can be fiddly to reassemble, so be careful!

The clip system on a two-part traditional embroidery hoop

Here are a couple more essential details about embroidery hoops. There’s a raised arrow along the top, bottom, and both sides of the inner hoop. The arrows along the top and bottom are in the CENTER position of the STITCHING area, which corresponds to the vertical center of the hoop. The two marks along the sides are BELOW the hoop’s center but represent the stitching area’s CENTER. If you think back to the Sensor Q foot, it needs space behind it without bumping into the back of the hoop. Hence, the lower horizontal center arrows.

The center arrows will help you hoop your project and match the center of your printed placement templates. There are also cut-outs along the top, bottom, and sides, which identify the limits of the stitchable area.

Understanding the markings on an embroidery hoop

Another vital thing to note is the writing on the bottom of the hoop. You’ll see embossed numbers indicating that hoop’s size (in mm). If the metric system isn’t your thing, I’ve seen people use a permanent marker and write the size in inches on the hoop. Whatever works for you!

But the most important thing is the set of ARROWS along the bottom. Notice there are arrows on the INNER and OUTER parts of the hoop. Those arrows must point to each other when you’re hooping your fabric. You do NOT want to rotate the inner hoop. The Designer Epic 3 hoops’ new design prevents that, but it’s good to know. Nor do you want to insert the inner hoop upside down.

If you rotate that inner hoop, the centering arrows along the side will not be in the correct position, and your design will be too high in the hoop, which can cause significant issues like the needle stitching into the plastic at the hoop’s top! Watch those arrows and be sure they match!

You’ll also notice some ridges along the sides of the larger hoops. These allow you to use metal clips (included) if you are working with thin fabric and need extra tension around the perimeter of the hoop, especially the sides. I use the clips with materials like organza or if I’m using one layer of a slippery stabilizer, but usually only on the larger hoops. They are easy to remove with a flathead screwdriver.

Metal clips on an embroidery hoop

Metal hoops are becoming popular. Husqvarna VIKING has four sizes: 100 by 100mm, 180 by 130mm, 240  by 150mm, and 200 by 200mm. Unlike the two-part traditional hoop, these hoops are ONE single piece of metal and use strong magnets to secure the fabric and stabilizer to the hoop. Notice that their edges are wider, reducing the maximum width of the stitching area. The maximum width of a traditional hoop for the Designer Epic 3 is 260 mm (not counting the Mega Turnable Hoop), while the maximum width of a metal hoop is 200 mm.

A metal embroidery hoop

The top surface of the metal hoops is textured with a soft nap to help hold and stabilize fabrics rather than letting them slip around during the hooping process. Store your magnets on the hoop’s underside (smooth side) so you don’t crush the napped surface.

Note that the metal hoops are heavier than the traditional plastic hoops. The magnets also add weight, so no more than eight magnets per hooping. The heavier the weight of the hoop and the project, the more stress on the arm of the embroidery unit, although the embroidery arm of the Designer Epic 3 has been redesigned and is pretty robust and much heavier.

Store the magnets on the underside of the metal hoop

We can now talk about the supplies you’ll need. First up, you need needles. Using the correct needles can make a massive difference in the look of your project. Husqvarna VIKING Embroidery and Titanium Embroidery needles come in two sizes: 12 and 14.

Experiment to find the ones that work the best for you. I tend to use the Size 14. The eyes of the embroidery needles are larger and help prevent friction from the multiple times the thread goes through your fabric.

The titanium needles have a coating to increase the longevity of the needle. Be sure to change your needle often. You can cause considerable damage to your fabric with a dull needle.

Embroidery and Titanium Embroidery needles

Then you’ll need some thread. The industry standard is 40-weight polyester or rayon thread. That doesn’t mean you can’t embroider with other weights and fiber content. Multiple brands and spool sizes exist, so shop to determine what works best. I like to purchase the larger cones for the more popular colors. For the most part, these threads are used ONLY on the top. I’ll only wind this thread in the bobbin if the back of the project is visible.

As you can see, I have multiple brands and spool sizes in my “red/pink” thread supply. These clear plastic containers are handy for storing thread as I can remove them from the cabinet and bring them to the table where I’m stitching. I rarely follow the thread chart for the exact thread used; I pick a color I like for that section! I’m very flexible when it comes to thread colors.

A selection of red and pink embroidery threads

Next up is the bobbin thread. The tensions on the Designer Epic 3 are factory set, so the bobbin thread should NEVER appear on the top, and the industry standard colors are black or white. You can choose prewound bobbins or wind your own.

Two things to note – if you buy prewound bobbins, be sure they are for your machine. The prewound bobbins for the Designer Epic 3 have category EIGHT on them. See that little circle on the packaging? Those will work in the Epic series of embroidery machines.

Often, I see people with incorrect bobbins, and they wonder why their embroidery looks awful. Be sure to check the bobbin. If the prewound is tight when you insert it in the bobbin case, unwind several yards of thread so it rotates smoothly. Sometimes, the bobbins are overwound during manufacturing.

And the standard bobbins for all machines can wear out. If you’re struggling with a particular bobbin, throw it out. But first, check that it was in the bobbin case per the instructions.

Options for the bobbin thread

The last supply you need is a stabilizer. We could talk about stabilizers for days, so I’ll only highlight a few critical points. Stabilizers come in four general categories, which are different in the REMOVAL METHOD of the stabilizer.  Be sure to read about stabilizers on the links below. You can learn a lot about stabilizers that way.

Tear-A-Way: This stabilizer tears away from the back of the project after the stitching is complete. It does not remain in the project and provides stability ONLY during the stitching process.

Cut-A-Way: This stabilizer will remain in the project. Use scissors to trim the excess.

Water-Soluable: I LOVE water-soluble stabilizers. You can put them on the top and the bottom, or both, and once the stitching is complete, the item gets rinsed or soaked, and all evidence of the stabilizer is gone. It’s excellent for two-sided designs (where the back will show), like free-standing lace.

Clear and Melt:  This is an excellent stabilizer for items that will get washed, but you want the stabilizer to remain, like towels. Low heat from the iron will remove the stabilizer.

A variety of Husqvarna VIKING stabilizers

Stabilizer TIP

MARK each roll or label them so they will not get mixed up! The rolls come in various widths ranging from 12″ to 24″, so you always have the perfect width regardless of your hoop size.

Here are a couple of questions to ask when choosing a stabilizer:

• What type of fabric? Or other material are you embroidering?
• Will the stabilizer be required to stay in the project?
• The thickness (weight) of the project?
• Will the back of the project be visible?

Don’t be shy to research and make notes about what worked and didn’t work. There’s a stabilizer for every scenario. I embroidered some crazy materials and had no issues finding a suitable stabilizer.

WOW! That was exciting! Now, get those tools and supplies assembled!

WAIT – – the one thing I didn’t discuss was the design to embroider! We’ll explore that with the Husqvarna VIKING Designer Epic 3 tomorrow. You might be surprised to learn that there are MANY different machine embroidery styles, and I’ll be looking at some of them tomorrow.

And later this week, I’ll share the latest machine embroidery project (a quilt – of course) that I’m working on! Be sure to stay tuned.

Have a super day!

Ciao!!

This is part 2 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 1: Why every quilter needs an embroidery machine | endless creative possibilities

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