FREE Quilting Patterns, Tutorials, Magazine

Home » Husqvarna Viking » Husqvarna Viking DESIGNER EPIC 3 » The Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3 | Using the Projection System

The Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3 | Using the Projection System

by Elaine Theriault

I’m back for another exciting day with the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3. Yesterday, while navigating the JoyOS Advisor, I showed you how to use the QR code to open the Design Booklet (embroidery designs internal to the Designer Epic 3). Since it’s a bit small to review on my phone, I downloaded the Design Booklet onto my iPad. Now I can sit and browse!

Today we’ll take an initial look at the Projection System and then continue to explore that for the rest of the week.

Projection is a phenomenal tool, and I’m always excited to try new things. I briefly mentioned Projection in a previous post, so be sure to check that out.

I decided to quilt some placemats using projection. I kept it simple and selected two fabrics for a basic quilt sandwich, one fabric for the front and one for the back with a layer of batting in between. I cut the fabric into rectangles approximately 13″ x 17”, and I cut enough to make four placemats to try some projection stitch techniques.

A yellow and blue fabric with small flowers, and a blue and yellow fabric with dishes

Two coordinating fabrics, one for the front and one for the back of the placemats

I needed batting, so I used scraps of fusible fleece. I love using up scraps! The pieces weren’t big enough, so I joined them with a zigzag stitch. Make sure the fusible (the side with glue dots) is on the same side, or it’ll be messy when you press. Trim the edges for a straight finish; overlapping the fusible will make it lumpy.

A rectangle made of pieces of white fusible fleece joined with white thread

Fusible fleece scraps joined with a zigzag stitch to make the batting for a placemat

The Designer Epic 3 has a 9 mm stitch width, but I didn’t need a stitch that wide for joining the batting pieces. I set the stitch width to 5.5 mm. I could have chosen a three or four-step zigzag, but a basic zigzag with a wide stitch width was the quickest option.

A screen showing zigzag stitch settings on a computerized sewing machine

Set-up for a 5.5 mm wide zigzag stitch

I made sure the edges of the fusible were butted, not overlapping. I used the Decorative Stitch Foot B with a red center line, which helped keep the pieces in the right position easily.

A metal presser foot joining two pieces of white fleece with a zigzag stitch

Joining the fusible fleece with a zigzag stitch

Now, I have the components for four placemats, and I’ll cut the binding later. To prepare for quilting, I need to secure those pieces together. Since I don’t baste small items like placemats, and using fusible fleece gives me even less reason to baste, I’ll use the  Singer Steam Press to fuse the batting to the wrong side of the front fabric. I love the Steam Press for these jobs. It’s much faster than a conventional iron, and the fusible batting stays put.

The Steam Press comes in three sizes, so you can choose one that fits your sewing space. You’ll find the Singer Steam Press at your Husqvarna Viking dealer.

A grey and black steam tool for pressing fabric

Singer Steam Press

I don’t have room to keep the press out, but it stores nicely upright, so it takes very little room. It takes seconds to put it on a table when working with fusible products. The amount of time I save is incredible, and I can get to sewing faster!

A yellow and blue floral fabric on a steam press

Pressing the fusible fleece to the wrong side of the placemat front fabric

My four placemats are ‘basted’ together, thanks to the heat and steam from the Steam Press. The heat and moisture create mild friction, lightly bonding the backing to the fused fleece. While the backing is held in place only by friction and can be easily removed, it’s enough to keep the three pieces together for quilting small projects. If you haven’t done this before, it’s a good idea to check the back periodically for tucks during the quilting process.

Four rectangles of yellow and blue floral fabric

The four placemats are fused and ready to be quilted

One of the advantages of the Designer Epic 3 regarding quilting is that I do NOT need to use the Interchangeable Dual Feed Foot. I simply ensure the Integrated Dual Feed (IDF) is engaged, and I can start stitching. I love that I can choose from an assortment of presser feet that have the cutout for the IDF and I can easily use the IDF for piecing and other sewing techniques.

A sewing machine presser foot with a built-in walking foot

The Integrated Dual Feed (IDF)

Another small detail to consider is the color of the thread. I wanted the stitch lines to show on the yellow fabric as the quilting will add to the decorative element on that side. I chose a blue that shows up well on the yellow but blends into the blue on the back. I’m good with this. Be sure to audition your quilting thread before you start. No one wants to rip out quilting.

Yellow and blue fabric beside a blue fabric and a spool of blue thread

Auditioning the thread

I used the edit options to change the stitch length to 3.0 and chose a 50-weight cotton quilting thread. It’s perfect for quilting.

A screen on a computerized sewing machine

Using the Edit Stitch tools to adjust the stitch length

Before the innovation of Projection on the Designer Epic 3, quilters and sewists resorted to using masking tape, the Multi-Line Decorative Foot, or the Edge Quilting Guide to know where to stitch our parallel lines of quilting.

While those methods work OK, a faster alternative is the Projection system. It’s great because I never have to worry about marking multiple lines or removing the lines, and best of all, it’s fast.

I mark one diagonal line on the fabric to ensure I’m stitching in a straight line. I use the white Chaco Liner as my marking tool of choice, and I use it on almost everything I need to mark. I’ll mark a 60-degree line rather than the typical 45-degree. Notice the line is in the middle of the placemat.

Yellow fabric with a quilter's ruler and white chalk tool

Marking the first line of quilting with a Clover Chaco Liner

To access the functions for Projection, I open the Projection menu by using the toggle button on the side menu.

A screen on a computerized sewing machine

The toggle button for the Projection menu

The toggle opens the menu but does not turn the Projection on. I toggle the ON button, and the lights on the Designer Epic 3 dim to view the projected lines better. I have four options – Stitch Preview, Grid, and two Stitch Guides. I always engage Stitch Preview to visualize my stitch on the project, and in this instance, I’ll use one of the Stitch Guides.

A screen on a computerized sewing machine

The toggle button for the Projection and the four menu selections

A toggle switch will activate the four options, independent of each other. I activated Stitch Preview and Stitch Guide 1. You’ll notice the arrows on the right-hand side. Each will open a drop-down menu providing options for that function.

A screen on a computerized sewing machine

The Stitch Preview and Stitch Guide 1 are activated

Depending on the fabric color I’m working with, I may need to change the color of the projection lines to another color. That’s easy to do, and you’ll have an entire colour wheel to select from, or you can choose one of the preset colors.

A screen on a computerized sewing machine

Options to change the color of the projection lines

The two Stitch Guides can be moved between 0mm and 30mm, either to the left using a minus sign or to the right. Other options for changing the lines include the angle and the width. The Stitch Guides are very flexible, and you should be able to position the line to suit your needs. Flexibility is one of my favorite things, and this projection function is amazing.

A screen on a computerized sewing machine

Moving the Stitch Guide to the left by 30 mm

Rather than keep tapping the plus and minus signs on the screen, you can also touch and hold briefly between the plus and minus for the number you want to change until a numeric keypad pops up. Enter the number (remember to use the minus sign if you want the lines to be to the left), and you’re ready to start sewing. It’s so easy!

A screen on a computerized sewing machine

The numeric keypad

Now, we can start stitching. I’m using a blue thread on the yellow fabric so you can see the quilting lines. I’m using the center of the Utility Foot A to follow the chalk line.

A metal presser foot on yellow fabric

Stitching the first line of quilting

I drew that first line in the middle of the placemat so we could work from the center out. So, the first line is centered on the placemat and then I’ll work from that line towards the right. I ALWAYS start on the same side instead of pivoting at the end and going back in the opposite direction as the latter can cause ripples on the underside. Even though the fabric is on an angle, the Projection line (red) works just fine. The green line is the Stitch Preview.

A red projection line and a green stitch preview line on yellow fabric

Even feeding the fabric on an angle, the red Projection line is clear and easy to follow

For every row from the center line to the right side of the fabric, start back at the top and then along the right-hand side. Keep stitching equidistant lines until you get to the bottom right-hand side of the placemat. Any excess backing eases from the center out on the placemat as you go, which helps prevent tucks. Check the back periodically, especially if you ‘basted’ with the Steam Press. Once you understand this concept, it works exceptionally well and is fast.

A yellow fabric with blue lines of stitching

The first set of quilting lines using projection

The Projection lines work great even at the end of each row of stitching. In this instance, the Stitch Guide (red) is crucial.

Note: I won’t see the Stitch Preview line when I’m sewing. But it’s there when I stop, so it’s easy to readjust if necessary.

A red line and a green line on yellow fabric with a metal presser foot

The Projection lines work from the top to the bottom

Next, rotate the placemat 180 degrees and start stitching from the center line to the other side of the placemat. Remember to always start back at the top or right side rather than pivoting.

One-half of the grid quilting is complete. I must say these lines look straight and even! And I only marked one line. The quilting only took a few minutes! I didn’t bother to anchor the stitches at the beginning and end with back stitches as I’ll trim the placemat to size later.

A yellow fabric with blue lines of stitching

The grid lines in one direction

For the alternate grid lines mark a chalk reference line in the opposite direction. Remember to use the 60-degree angle to get that diamond shape.

A quilter's ruler, a chalk marking tool and a white chalk line, on yellow fabric

Marking the reference line for the second set of grid lines

Sometimes with other tools or methods, we may get good reference lines in one direction but not in the other. I had zero issues with the Projection lines and the angle in any direction. I love this!

A red line and a green line projected on a yellow fabric

The Projection lines work like a charm

Repeat the same process working from the middle outwards to the right-hand edge. Then, rotate the piece and work from the center to the opposite side. Again, I’m always starting at the top. I do not pivot at the bottom and work my way back. The projection lines work well at the ends of the lines in all directions.

A red line and a green line on yellow fabric with a metal presser foot

The Projection lines work well at the end of the lines

And now the piece is quilted! I only had to mark two reference lines, and the stitching took about 20 minutes. It was probably less, but taking pictures along the way slowed me down. The lines are neat, even, and very consistent. I’m thrilled with the results.

Yellow fabric with a diamond pattern stitched in blue thread

The grid quilting using projection lines

Remember that the Designer Epic 3 is a Wi-Fi-enabled machine. What does that mean? Well, it connects to the internet, and when I turned it on to quilt my placemat, I got a notification that there was an update. I had the choice of using a USB stick or downloading the update directly via the Wi-Fi. I have pretty good Wi-Fi, so I did the update that way. It took about ten minutes, and I was ready to sew. You must love these new tools!

A screen on a computerized sewing machine

Updating the software via Wi-Fi

And that ends the excitement for today! I had so much fun playing with the Projection feature and I’ll be back tomorrow with more projection fun on the Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3. After all, I’ve got three more placemats to quilt!

Be sure to come back to check it out.

Have a super day!


A gold and white sewing machine with gold thread


This is part 2 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 1: The Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3 | Navigating the JoyOS ADVISOR

Go to part 3: The Husqvarna VIKING DESIGNER EPIC 3 |More creative quilting designs with the Projection Grid


Leave a Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.