Make your quilted tote water resistant with Odif Odicoat by Christine Baker June 18, 2025 written by Christine Baker June 18, 2025 1 Yesterday on QUILTsocial, I showed you how to make strong and sturdy handles with fabric and BOSAL Craft-Tex Plus. Today, I’ll use Odif Odicoat Gel Coating – 250ml- to make the strap and the quilted panels of my tote bag water- and dirt-resistant. I’ll also make one of the inside pockets using another of my orphan blocks. Here are the two sides of the tote bag ready for the application of Odicoat. Odicoat can be applied with the card or with a soft brush. Here are some tips to follow when applying Odif Odicoat Gel Coating – 250ml: Wash your fabric before treating it with Odif OdiCoat. Work on a nonstick surface (i.e. silicone craft sheet). I’m using aluminum oven liners that I bought at the dollar store. Spread a thin layer of OdiCoat with the OdiCoat card or a flat brush. Allow to dry for 20 minutes. If you want the fabric to be machine washable, iron on a satin setting without steam, using baking paper for protection. I’m opting not to iron as I don’t foresee ever putting this bag in the washing machine. Depending on the desired effect, apply a 2nd and then a 3rd coat. I’ll only apply one coat, as I want the bag to be dirt- and water-resistant. If you’re looking for a waterproof coating, you would use more coats. The Odicoat is completely dry after 24 hours. Here’s a video I made for my QUILTsocial post last August on 2 ways to make fabric waterproof with Odif OdiCoat: As I mentioned in the video, you can use Odif Odicoat in two different ways. You can apply it to fabric before sewing or to finished projects after they are made. Either way, after: 1 coat, the fabric is protected and water-repellent. 2 coats, the fabric is coated, with a coated canvas look. 3 coats, the fabric is waterproofed, with a waxed canvas look. Use the card to scoop the Odicoat out of the jar and then spread a thin, even coat over the entire surface of the quilted panel. It was challenging to coat the bag handles with the card, so I ultimately used my fingers to ensure they were evenly covered. The dried coating washed off my hands easily with soap and water. Use your fingers to ensure the handles are evenly coated. Since the handles are coated on both sides and I don’t want them to become permanently stuck to the metal tray, I’ll place them on their sides to dry overnight. Put the treated handles on their sides on the metal tray. Make pocket number one. While those dry, I’ll start making the inside pockets for the tote bag. Since I have more blocks, I might as well use them to create the pockets. The first thing I’ll do is cut a facing for the pocket from the same fabric I used for the handle. My orphan blocks are 7½” square, so I’ll use my OMNIGRID Ruler – 121⁄2″ x 121⁄2″ (31.75 x 31.75cm), my UNIQUE Double Sided Cutting Mat – 18″ x 24″ (45 x 60cm), and my OLFA RTY-2/GP5 – Printed Handle Rotary Cutter 45mm to cut one square of fabric of the same size. Cut a square of fabric the same size as the orphan block. Now, I’ll put the two squares right sides together, lining up all of the outside edges, and I’ll use my UNIQUE QUILTING Clever Clips Small – 12 pcs to keep them secure. Using a ¼” seam, I’ll stitch all the way around, leaving a 2″ space for turning. Stitch the two squares together on all four sides, leaving a small space for turning. Once I’ve turned the pocket right side out, I’ll use my CLOVER 7807 – Hold it Precision Stiletto to poke out the corners so that they are nice and sharp. Use a stiletto to poke out the corners once the pocket is turned right side out. The next step is to press the edges of the pocket. I’ll use my OLISO PROTM TG1600 Pro Plus Smart Iron – Tula PinkTM on a UNIQUE QUILTING Wool Pressing Mat – 18″ x 24″ – Grey for this step. I’ll also press under the seam allowances for the opening so they are both nice and straight. Press the edges and the seam allowance for the opening so they are all nice and straight. I want the top edge of the pocket to be sturdy, so I’ll cut a piece of UNIQUE Webbing 25mm x 10m (1″ x 11yd) – White that’s slightly shorter than the width of the pocket. Cut a piece of webbing that is slightly shorter than the width of the pocket. Now, I’ll slide the piece of webbing inside the pocket, aligning it with the top edge. I’ll use some of my UNIQUE QUILTING Clever Clips Small – 12 pcs to hold it in place, while I topstitch the edge of the pocket through all of the layers. Slip the webbing strip inside the pocket, aligning it with the top, and then clip it in place before topstitching. I’ve finished the topstitching on this pocket, so now I’ll leave the coated pieces of my tote bag to dry overnight. Tomorrow, I’ll show you how to make a zippered pocket with another orphan quilt block. This is part 3 of 5 in this series Go back to part 2: How to make sturdy tote handles with BOSAL interfacing and fabric Print this page or save as a PDF 0qs577DIY sewing projectfabric coatingOdif Odicoatorphan blocksquilted pocketquilted tote tutorialquilting blogwater-resistant totewebbing for bags FacebookTwitterPinterestLinkedinRedditWhatsappTelegramEmail Christine Baker I have been designing and publishing quilt patterns for the last 16 years under the business name Fairfield Road Designs. My patterns range from fusible applique and piecing to felted wool applique and punchneedle. You can see all of patterns on my website www.fairfieldroaddesigns.com. previous post How to make sturdy tote handles with BOSAL interfacing and fabric YOU MAY ALSO LIKE... 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