Mastering fusible web: HeatnBond TIPS for woven fabrics and applique

Sample making is so much fun! I had a blast using the HeatnBond SoftStretch with the knit fabrics, and I can’t wait to see what happens when I wash the samples.

Today, we’ll look at the HeatnBond products for woven fabrics: Featherlite, Lite, and Ultra.

HeatnBond Featherlite, Lite, and Ultra

In addition to making samples I’ll wash, I want to show you some neat things I’ve done with these products.

Let’s start with the rolls. The rolls come in two weights – Ultra and Lite. While you can use them interchangeably, be mindful that if the item is no SEW,  use Ultra and Lite for the sewing projects.

The Lite rolls are available in four widths: 5mm (3/16”), 10mm (⅜”), 16mm (⅝”), and 22mm (⅞”). There are also four widths for the Ultra rolls: 6mm (¼”), 10mm (⅜”), 16mm (⅝”) and 22mm (⅞”). The only difference is the width of the narrowest of each.

Making Fusible Bias

I mostly make ¼” fusible bias, and I use the HeatnBond Lite 5mm (3/16”), which fits perfectly in the Clover ¼” bias tape maker. Note you cannot use the 6 mm (¼”) as it’s slightly too wide. There are other widths of bias tape makers; check the packaging to ensure you use the correct adhesive tape width (fusible web).

I’ll need an ironing surface and iron, a straight pin, and some fabric. I followed the instructions with the bias tape maker and cut a ½” fabric strip on the bias. You don’t have to cut the fabric on the bias, but if you are making curves, you need the bias cut. Cut one end of the fabric strip on the diagonal so you can easily feed the end through the bias tape maker.

Supplies to make fusible bias

A slot on the underside of the bias tape maker allows you to feed the fabric strip (with the aid of the pin) through the small oval opening at the front.

Then, feed the 5mm strip of HeatnBond Lite through the opening on the top. It should look like this.

Loading the bias tape maker

And here’s what it looks like from the back. Keep that strip centered as you work.

The fabric and adhesive tape (fusible web) loaded in the bias tape maker

I find it easier to pin the exposed end of the fabric and the fusible web strip to the ironing surface.

Pin the end of the fabric to the ironing surface

Pull the bias tape maker back and follow closely (and slowly) with the tip of the iron while keeping the strip of fabric centered in the back of the bias tape maker so it doesn’t twist. Be quick, not too quick – you don’t want to overheat the adhesive tape (fusible web). Here’s a quick video to explain what I mean.

How to make bias tape using Clover Bias Tape Maker and HeatnBond Lite (adhesive tape (fusible web)).

And before you know it, you can have a lot of fusible bias tape. The HeatnBond Lite (5mm) is a staple in my sewing studio, as I never know when I need to make fusible bias tape in the appropriate color to match my project.

Fusible bias tape in the color of my choice

Securing openings

If I’m making a project that requires it turned inside out, I use a strip of fusible web to fuse the opening shut rather than hand stitch it. Lazy, I know, but it’s fast. Here’s an example of a machine embroidery project in the hoop. It’s a mug rug, and the project has an opening in the back to allow you to turn it inside out.

A mug rug with an opening in the back

You could use any width and weight of the adhesive tape (fusible web) rolls of HeatnBond, but since I won’t sew this, I used the HeatnBond Ultra.

HeatnBond Ultra adhesive tape (fusible web) rolls to close the opening on the mug rug

Start by cutting a piece of the fusible web tape the length you need to close the opening.

A length of the adhesive tape (fusible web)

Do not remove the paper yet. Place the adhesive tape (fusible web)  inside the opening, keeping it as close to the edge as possible to ensure no loose flap along that “seam.” I press in small sections as I do this. Remember to check the time and temperature.

Fuse the adhesive tape (fusible web) to the inside of the opening

Remove the protective paper.

Remove the protective paper.

Place the edges of the opening against each other as they should be placed and fuse with the iron. It may take a few extra seconds of fusing time as there are multiple layers of fabric. Test periodically to ensure a tight bond. Now the opening is closed, and no one will know how you did it!

The back opening is gone

And there’s the completed mug rug. These are very popular, so why not upscale the professional finish on your mug rugs by using the fusible web to close the opening? This technique works for placemats, table runners, and other small projects. The HeatnBond Ultra is handy to keep in my fusible web stash.

The mug rug

Binding a quilt or fusing a facing

Here’s another place you can use those strips of fusible web. Many of you will gasp at this one, but it works. Let’s say you have a small wall hanging that needs binding, but hand stitching isn’t your thing, or you don’t like the look of sewing it with the sewing machine. Maybe you’re pressed for time. Not that that has ever happened at my house. Why not fuse the binding to the back of the project?

I started by making my binding as usual. I fused a narrow strip of HeatnBond Lite along the fold. If I decide to stitch the binding down by hand or machine, I use the Lite to give me the option.

Adding a strip of adhesive to the binding

I sewed the binding to the front of the quilt with the strip of adhesive tape (fusible web) on top. Yes, I got a join right at the corner, but I left it, and it worked fine.

Sewing the binding to the quilt

I joined the binding as usual and then removed all the paper.

The final binding join

I had to take extra time to manipulate the corners, with a bit of extra fusing time because of the thicknesses. But can you tell the binding was fused down? The solid is the front, while the print is the back. I’ve used this technique on other wall hangings and facings on table runners.

The fused binding

The strips of the fusible web are also great for putting trim on a project, and with the variety of widths, you’ll find one that’s just right. Choose the correct width and ensure the trim can handle the heat. Do a test – always!

Using adhesive tape (fusible web) to adhere trim to a project

Machine Embroidery Applique

Let’s move on to some uses of the yardage. I love to do machine embroidery appliques, and I’ve been experimenting with precut shapes and whether I need a fusible web on the back. I’ll cover this in more detail in another set of blog posts, but let’s say that I’ve done some experimenting, and I prefer to use a fusible web on the wrong side of my precut applique shapes. I use a digital cutter to cut my precut shapes.

So, I fused a piece of the HeatnBond FeatherLite to the wrong side of my applique fabric. At the beginning of the week, I said that none of the HeatnBond products had a second layer of paper, but I stand corrected. I found a layer of light paper on the exposed side of the Featherlite product to prevent it from sticking to itself. It’s not attached to the fusible web. The fusible web is not super sticky, but this was new to me.

HeatnBond FeatherLite

I used the SVG file for my applique shape and cut it with a digital cutter. Even though my mat was a mess, it cut perfectly. The fabric was fabric-side down on the fabric mat with the paper side of the fusible web facing up.

TIP NEVER place the unprotected fusible web directly onto a digital cutter mat. A sheet of glue onto another sheet of glue? That will never have a happy ending! Cutting with a digital cutter is a more involved process than I’m showing, but I want you to know the HeatnBond worked beautifully for the task. It’s not complicated – I don’t have time to get into the details in this post.

Cutting the applique shapes with HeatnBond FeatherLite on the digital cutter

The precut shape is ready to be positioned on the placement line of the machine embroidery applique.

The precut shape is ready to be positioned on the background

There are more steps to the process but I’ll keep it brief and to the point! I wanted to let you know, however, that the HeatnBond Featherlite worked like a charm. The added fusible web only slightly changed the hand of the applique. I have found that cutting an applique shape on a digital cutter and NOT adding a fusible web to the back isn’t for me. It works, but the edges can fray, and the applique shape never seems to stay perfectly flat on the background during the tack-down process. The fusible web on the back of the digital cut applique shapes helps stabilize it, making it perfect! You MUST experiment to know what works for you.

The machine embroidered heart with HeatnBond FeatherLite on the back

Testing and Finishing Techniques

In keeping with my experiments, I wanted to see how the various weights would react with several different stitches to finish the edges (or no stitching in the case of the HeatnBond Ultra). I also wanted to test the prewash versus no prewash.

These are the samples I made. I made two sets, one with the background and the applique fabric prewashed (pink) and the second with no prewashed fabric (teal). I used all three weights of the HeatnBond (Ultra, FeatherLite, and Lite). Not all are pictured.

I positioned four squares on each background and left one with a raw edge. The other three were finished with a zigzag, a buttonhole or a satin stitch.

I also layered the FeatherLite and Lite to a maximum of three layers to see how stiff it got. I stitched around all three shapes on those samples.

Samples of HeatnBond FeatherLie on non-prewashed fabric

Here’s one square of HeatnBond Ultra with no stitching per the instructions.

Sample of HeatnBond Ultra on non-prewashed fabric

Here are the samples for HeatnBond FeatherLite with the prewashed fabric.

Sample of HeatnBond FeatherLite on prewashed fabric

Now, here’s something to note. As you can see, I did a lot of stitching over the two days. After using the HeatnBond SoftStretch, my needle had ZERO fusible residue.

No fusible web residue on the needle

There’s a slight residue after all the stitching, using the same needle, which I never wiped down. I had ZERO sticky issues during all the stitching. There was no issue with the embroidery needle when I machine-embroidered the heart.

There is a slight bit of residue after stitching through the fusible web

I have two last things to share today. I used the HeatNBond Ultra to fuse two pieces of felt together.

HeatnBond Ultra to adhere two pieces of felt

And if you want, you can fussy cut images with the fusible web on the wrong side of the fabric. Here, you can see that I’ve fused a fusible web to the back. Using a sharp pair of scissors, fussy cut the shapes.

Fusible web on the wrong side of the fabric, ready for fussy cutting

It’s easy to take the fussy cut shapes and put them on your project. In this case, I fused them to a wooden shape. Next time, I might paint the shape before fusing the appliques.

Fussy-cut hearts on wood

Well? I’m in love with HeatnBond fusible webs. As you can see, one product does not serve all needs. I like to have a variety of weights and formats, so I’m ready for any job!

Be sure to come back tomorrow. I’ve taken most of my samples, marked them with a permanent pen with the pertinent information, and thrown them into the washing machine and the dryer. I want to see how they stand up. You’ll see the results tomorrow, so be sure to come back for that.

Have a super day!

Ciao!

This is part 4 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 3: Master Fusible Web: HeatnBond SOFTSTRETCH Tips for Stretchy Fabric Success

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