For this part of the art quilt, I decided to use 3½” strips. You can use any width of fabric but I don’t recommend wider than 4½” which is the max width of the Diamond ruler.
As with any ruler you line it up with the height measurement you wish your half diamond shape to be.
Cut the fabric strips. Once finished cutting the strips don’t discard the remaining pieces, they too will be used. After the first cut rotate the diamond ruler as many times needed to cut more half diamond pieces.
Because these half diamond shapes are longer than the average triangle, I wouldn’t advise you to use the ¼” tape piecing method I showed you in yesterday’s post, to sew the angled corners.
Instead, each long triangular piece of fabric needs to be marked on the corners that intersect to get a ¼” seam allowance.
In the next photo, you’ll see the fabrics are facing right side down, matching short edges together as in the photo. Insert a pin through the mark on the top fabric through the mark of the bottom fabric, repeat for the other side.
Once intersections match, pin both pieces of fabric together.
As you sew, follow the pencil line ensuring a perfect ¼” seam.
Perfect matching point using the technique.
This part creates the beach portion of the art quilt making 4 rows. I also added a couple of pieces of green fabrics to create a transition from the grassy section to the beach section. You’ll need approximately 9 to 10 half diamonds per row.
When it’s all sewn, you’ll notice that these rows are wider than the rows sewn yesterday using the tumbling blocks and where all the rows aligned. These rows will be somewhat staggered, therefore creating a random look.
This is part 2 of 5 in this series.
Go back to part 1: Making tumbling blocks for a quilt easy using the SEW EASY Triangle Ruler
Go to part 3: The ins and outs of curved piecing your art quilt
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