Adding lattice to your quilt top: A tutorial

Welcome back! Yesterday, we finished our tree blocks by adding the tree trunk and trimming the blocks to size. Today we’re completing the quilt top in preparation for quilting and binding. There are several ways to prepare the quilt top for quilting; it may be basted with thread or safety pins, or it may be basted using an adhesive spray. If you baste with thread or safety pins, I recommend using SCHMETZ #4019 Chrome Quilting – 90/14 that’s because I use a heavier weight thread such as 40wt or 32wt, and the size 90/14 needle eye is better suited for these heavier threads.

SCHMETZ nonstick and chrome needles

Also featured in the photo above are the SCHMETZ #4502 Super Nonstick Needles Carded – 80/12 and the SCHMETZ #4501 Super Nonstick Needles Carded – 70/10. What I like about these needles is that they’re indeed nonstick. I find this very useful when I use an adhesive spray or sticky interfacings which both can leave a residue on the needle. With the non-stick needles, there’s no residue left on the needles.

The last step to completing the tree quilt top is to add sashing. The sashing I decided on is 2” wide finished. I considered going wider but due to the width of the block size, I found it looked a bit off. I also decided that instead of long strips between the rows, I’d use smaller pieces along with cornerstones.

Based on the size of my block, I cut:

  • 16 – 2½” x 2½” for the cornerstones
  • 12 – 2½” x 9” for the horizontal lattice strips
  • 12 – 2½” x 12½” for the vertical lattice strips

Lattice and corner stone fabrics

Sew a 2½’ X 12½” lattice strip to the right side of each block. For the blocks that’ll be on the left of the quilt, sew a lattice strip to the left of those blocks only.

Add lattice strips to each block.

Sew three rows of three blocks.

Make three rows.

Next, sew the lattice between each row. In this instance, we’re making what are basically narrow rows.

Each row has four 2½” x 2½” cornerstones and three 2½” x 9” strips.

Sew 4 rows for the lattice between the block rows.

Sew a lattice row between each row of blocks in addition to one on top and one on the bottom of the quilt top.

With all the blocks and lattice pieces sewn together, the quilt top is completed.

Sew the lattice rows between each block rows.

Now to quilt and bind. It’s so satisfying to see the finished quilt.

Finished quilt

This week I spoke of and explained why I like certain types and sizes of SCHMETZ needles. Unfortunately, I couldn’t show and write about all the needles I love to use. There are so many needles for so many styles of projects. All I can say is, get the correct needle for your project.

SCHMETS needles

Before I complete this post, I’d like to answer one question you may have. How do I store all my sewing needles? The answer is, in a hand embroidery floss container.

An embroidery floss container to store SCHMETZ needles

If you’re wondering what a tree quilt looks like using scraps of fabrics and miscellaneous fat quarters, here’s a quilt top I completed not too long ago. I used the tree improv method to make it. Does anyone want to quilt it for me?

A tree quilt made of scraps and miscellaneous fat quarters

Hope everyone enjoyed this week’s project, and the information I provided on different types of SCHMETZ needles such as SCHMETZ #4019 Chrome Quilting – 90/14. Remember, there’s a SCHMETZ needle for every aspect of your project.

This is part 5 of 5 in this series

Go back to part 4: Finishing a quilt block to size: Here’s what it takes

Related posts

Tie-dyeing process: How to get Shibori style dyed fabric

Shibori tie-dyeing: What you need to get started

Finishing a quilt block to size: Here’s what it takes