Welcome back! Yesterday, we learned about three different types of zipper feet, and which one is best for your project. What did you think of that? I know it can be hard to totally comprehend the process until you actually get started, but it’s not too difficult to do with the right zipper foot.
Today, I’ll be using the Husqvarna VIKING Sapphire 965Q to make the zippered pouch. When it’s time for the zipper insertion, I’ll send you back to yesterday’s post. After you’ve completed that task, come back here to finish off your project.
- Two pieces of outer fabric, approximately 12¼” x 9″
- Two pieces of outer fabric for the zipper pull, approximately 2″ x 2″
- Two pieces of lining that measure the same size as the outer fabric
- Two pieces of heavy fusible Decor-Bond interfacing that measure the same size as the outer fabric
- One regular zipper that is longer by about 3″ than the outer fabric
- Thread for top stitching
I decided to make this harder for myself by choosing a print with a pattern. While I could just cut it without regards to the pattern, I’m always up for a challenge. This fabric is from Northcott’s ColorWorks Concepts collection.
Since I’ll be using a ¼” seam allowance, I’ve added ¼” beyond the pattern on all four sides.
Here’s the zipper which is clearly longer than the top edge of the outer fabric. You’ll soon see why I’ve done this.
Start by fusing the interfacing to the wrong side of the outer fabric. This takes a bit of patience, a LOT of steam and a heavy hand. The better the interfacing is adhered, the better the bag looks when it’s finished.
Now that the interfacing is adhered to the outer fabric, it’s time to zip over to yesterday’s post to insert your zipper. After you’ve done that, come back to today’s post to finish your pouch.
Now that the zipper is sandwiched between the lining and the outer bag pieces, it’s time to prep the box-shaped corners. I’m using the pattern on my fabric as a guide. Notice that I’m cutting ¼” beyond the pattern to allow for the seam allowance.
If you don’t have a pattern on your bag, then cut out a 1¾” square on each of the four bottom corners of the outer bag and the four bottom corners of the lining.
It helps if you mark the lines with the appropriate marking tool and cut with scissors.
Because I’m using the patterned fabric as my guide for the box corners, I used the cut out from the outer bag to cut out the corner on the lining. However, if you do this, make sure that all four corners have the same sized square cut.
Lay out the bag pieces so the two outer fabrics are layered on top of each other, and the two lining pieces are also layered on top of each other. Make sure you open the zipper BEFORE you proceed with this step.
Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch the side seams. You can only see my stitches on the outer fabric, but that entire line along the top and the bottom is sewn. Stitch the bottom of the outer fabric and stitch the bottom of the lining, BUT make sure to leave an opening in the lining so you can turn the bag inside out. DO NOT stitch in the corner cutouts.
For each of the four corners, take the side seam and match it up with the corresponding bottom seam. Keep the pieces as straight as possible, and then stitch across the bottom of each of the four corners. Sometimes I double stitch this, especially if I think the bag will get a lot of wear.
Now we get to the fun part! Turn the bag inside out through the opening in the bottom of the lining. If you opened the zipper, this is easy. If you forgot, well it gets tricky as you try to open the zipper from inside the bag. Make life easy for yourself, and open that zipper first!
Tuck the lining inside the outer part of the bag. Notice that the tail of the zipper is tucked inside the bag.
Push the tail of the zipper to the outside. Remember, we left an opening there when we stitched the zipper in place.
Next up is to top stitch around the top of the bag. Open the zipper all the way up so the zipper head is completely out of the way. Top stitch around the edge of the bag.
I used the free arm on the Sapphire 965Q to make this task easier, and I used the regular presser foot as I wasn’t stitching close to the zipper.
The end of the zipper is too long, so we need to shorten the zipper and make a zipper tab. I decided to use one of the circles on my patterned fabric. I started by cutting a piece with two circles, one for the front and one for the back and leaving a seam allowance as needed.
I next placed a scrap of interfacing, from one of the cutout corners, and with a tiny bit of effort I peeled it away from the outer fabric. I fused the interfacing in place.
Then I placed the right sides together, and stitched leaving a small opening to turn the piece inside out.
Now I have a square of fabric for the zipper tab with a small opening on one side in which to insert the cut-off end of the zipper.
Decide how much of the zipper you want to hang over the end of the bag, and cut off the excess zipper.
Insert the end of the zipper into the opening in the zipper tab, and topstitch in place. You may want to make the zipper tab the same width of the zipper. In that case, it would be hard to turn it inside out. You may have to make a folded tab around the end of the zipper.
Notice how I custom fit the fabric design to the size of my bag. Instead of using exact measurements, I used the fabric design to dictate the size.
One of the nice things about putting in this kind of zipper is that the bag completely opens up making it very accessible to get whatever you have put inside. No hunting in the corners – everything is in plain sight!
That wraps up another week that just flew by. I’ve had a lot of fun with the Husqvarna VIKING Sapphire 965Q. As you followed along at home, I hope that you found some of the tips and techniques useful. Don’t forget to send in a picture of your zippered pouch. It’s a great way to personalize a quick gift for someone and a great way to use up those excess zippers that we all seem to have.
Have a great day!
This is part 5 of 5 in this series.
Go back to part 4: 3 presser feet that make inserting a zipper easy