A memory quilt turns favorite family photos into a keepsake worth passing down. This post walks through printing photos onto fabric and framing each one into a block. It also covers cutting lattice and binding strips, sewing the quilt top together, and finishing with simple quilting and binding. Ready?
Family photo memory quilts
materials
fabric
- 20 digital photos
- 1⅓ yd [1.5m] white fabric for printing the photos
- 2¼ yd [2.0m] fabric for the lattice (or use scraps for variety)
- ⅝ yd [0.5m] fabric for the binding
- 3½ yd [3.25m] fabric for the backing
- 1 double-size batting
thread
- sewing thread to match the binding
- quilting thread
notions
- freezer paper for printing photos onto fabric
- rotary cutter and extra blades
- acrylic rulers: a 12½″ square, a 6″ x 12″, and a 6″ x 24″
- iron
- straight pins
- pencil
- small binding clips
Print photos onto fabric
Enlarge each photo in a word processing document and print one photo per page whenever possible. Smaller or lower-quality photos can share a page instead. Only an inkjet printer works for this step. A laser printer will not transfer the image properly onto fabric.
Family photos printed on fabric
One method fuses white fabric onto freezer paper before printing. Press the fabric onto the shiny side of the paper. Leave a small gap at one end to help the sheet feed smoothly. Print a test photo first, since printer settings can shift the results. Peel the freezer paper away once printing is done. Then heat set the ink with an iron on its hottest cotton setting, pressing both sides of the fabric. A second method uses pre-treated fabric sheets made for inkjet printers. These come with a paper backing already attached, so there’s no need to fuse anything first. Peel the backing off after printing and trim the fabric to size. Either method works well, but testing before printing a whole batch saves time and fabric.
Frame each photo into a block
Trim each photo to its own size, since photos vary in shape and quality. This variety adds charm once the quilt comes together, much like the mismatched photos on a favorite mantel. Choose one finished block size for the whole quilt, then frame each photo out to that size individually.
For a block that finishes at 12½” square, measure the photo first. Add strips to the two sides so the block reaches the full width. Then add strips to the top and bottom to bring it to the full height. Cut frame pieces slightly larger than needed. A little extra makes trimming down to size much easier. A rotating cutting mat pairs well with a square ruler here. Rotate the mat instead of the fabric to square up each side of the block safely and accurately.
Trimmed photos
Cut lattice and binding strips
With all the blocks framed, cut the lattice and binding strips next. Cut the longest pieces first. This means strips 2½” wide x 58½” long for the lattice between rows, plus binding strips 2½” wide x 70″ long. Fold the fabric in half, then in half again for long cuts. Keep the edges aligned and the fabric flat before cutting through all four layers at once. Square off the fabric edge first to remove the selvage. Once the long strips are cut, move on to the shorter pieces. Cut 2½” x 12½” [31.8cm] strips to separate the photo blocks within each row.
Add 2½” x 12½” strips between each photo and at each end of the rows.
Assemble the rows and quilt top
Sew a short lattice strip between each photo block and at both ends of every row. Mark the long strips before attaching them between rows, so the vertical seams line up cleanly across the quilt. Measure and mark each edge at the same points. Then match those marks to the seams in the row below. Sew a strip between each row, plus one strip each at the very top and bottom of the quilt. Sewing the rows together after marking keeps every intersection aligned.
Completed quilt top
Quilt, trim, and bind
Simple straight-line quilting suits a memory quilt well. Quilt a line on each side of the lattice strips, and another around every photo. This holds the layers together without overwhelming the images. After quilting, trim away the excess batting and backing along the edges.
Mark a 45-degree angle at each end of the binding strips before joining them. This makes it easy to find either end when sewing. After attaching the binding, snip a small notch from each corner. This little trick makes turning the corner much smoother. Small clips hold the folded binding in place while it’s sewn down, spaced a bit closer together around each corner. Machine stitching the binding down gives a clean, secure finish when done carefully with a matching thread color.