For the accent colors, I’m using a fat quarter (FQ) from every fabric of the Banyan Batiks Lustre collection. I love color! In other words, I’ll be using 23 FQs! Depending on your color choices, you may only need 21 FQs.
TIP! Once again, before you cut into any of the accent fabrics, please read to the end of today’s blog post.
From the accent fabrics you’ll need to cut the following:
- (21) 10” circles
- (7) 10½” x 10½” squares
- (14) 5” x 10½” rectangles
- (28) 5” x 5” squares
You’ll also need (21) 10” x 10” squares of HeatnBond Non-Woven Light Weight Fusible Interfacing.
Let’s start by cutting out the 21 HeatnBond interfacing squares.
First, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the paper side of each interfacing square. Once the lines are all marked, press 1 interfacing square onto the back of each fat quarter, paper side up, and follow HeatnBond’s temperature instructions. Place the interfacing square on the edge of the fat quarter as shown below.
Next, adjust your TrueCut 360º Circle Cutter for a 10” diameter circle.
Align the circle cutter at the “X” where the lines intersect on the interfacing backing paper.
Now, the slightly tricky part. Think of it as yoga for your hands!
With your non-dominant hand, apply firm pressure on the circle cutter’s silver adjustment knob.
With your dominant hand, using the same pressure you would when using a rotary cutter, press down on the outer (blue) knob and move your dominant hand in a full circular motion to cut a 360º circle.
Once all the circles have been cut, go ahead and cut the remaining pieces for the accent colors, refer to the above list.
For this next step, you’ll need the (21) 10½” x 10½” background squares.
Halfway down all 4 sides of all 21 squares make a small, light pencil line ¼” from the edge of the fabric.
Place a circle on top of each square, aligning it ¼” from the edge of the square using the pencil lines as a guide. I exaggerated the darkness of the pencil lines in the next photo so they can easily be seen.
Now, I’ll also stitch around the edge of every circle with a small blind hem stitch and a monofilament thread.
TIP! The only reason I‘m using monofilament thread is so that the thread is barely visible. If I use regular thread, I’d have to change the thread often to match the fabric as closely as possible.
It’ll be fun to try this stitch for the first time on the Husqvarna EPIC-980Q machine!
When all of the stitching is done I need to finish the cutting.
From the 21 blocks with circles, put 7 aside and take the remaining 14 blocks to the cutting table.
Using your 12½” x 12½” ruler, remove a ½” strip from the center of each block.
TIP! The easiest way to do this is by measuring 5” from the outer edge, then cutting. Repeat this step from the opposite edge of the circle. When you’re done, you’ll have (28) 5” x 10½” half circle pieces.
Take (14) 5” x 10½” half circle pieces from the 28 you just cut.
From the outer corners, using the 6½” x 6½” ruler, cut 5” x 5” squares as shown below. When done you’ll have (28) 5” x 5” squares.
Wow, another day is done, and all the cutting is done too.
Look at all these beautiful cut pieces of fabrics all ready for piecing together!
I hope you’ve enjoyed using TrueCut 6½” x 6½” and 12½” x 12½” quilting rulers as well as the TrueCut 360° Circle Cutter. TrueCut 360º makes an effortless job of cutting perfect circles! It’s amazing how quickly and accurately the circles can be cut with the correct tool.
Tomorrow I’ll assemble the blocks, so be sure to join me!
This is part 3 of 5 in this series.
Go back to part 2: The trick to cutting long pieces of fabric is in the fold!
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