Well, are you convinced about the usefulness of a serger? The more I use the Husqvarna Viking Amber Air S600, the more I love it and the more uses I find.
I didn’t have much experience with a coverstitch machine, so it was exciting to have the opportunity to test it out.
So what exactly is a coverstitch, and why would you want (need) one? First, I’ll show you the main difference between an overlock and a coverstitch machine.
The Amber Air S600 has an extra looper called the chain looper, which sits in front of the upper and lower loopers. You can see the upper looper in the back, the lower looper in the middle, and the chain looper in front.
Three additional needle positions work with the chain looper. You’ll find functions on the serger to allow you to use the chain looper, but the looper and the extra needle positions are the main physical differences.

The three loopers on a coverstitch serger
The extra looper allows you to stitch a four or five-thread safety stitch, providing additional security to a serged seam. It’s a line of stitching (chain stitch is shown in yellow thread) combined with the three or four-thread overlock.

Examples of a safety stitch
Another type of stitch is the coverstitch, used to achieve a professional look on knit garments.

Coverstitch used to hem a knit garment
Stitching on the wrong side of the fabric, with a decorative thread in the looper, can create beautiful decorative stitches. Did you know that? I didn’t! Use a 30wt decorative thread in the looper to get beautiful decorative stitches using the coverstitch and chain stitches.
The wider stitch in this photo is the narrow coverstitch, and the narrower line of stitching is the chain stitch, also stitched on the wrong side with a decorative thread in the looper.

Coverstitch and chain stitch are used as decorative elements.
And the last stitch type is the chain stitch, used for construction, hemming, or decorative purposes. See an example in the photo above.
It’s easy to convert from overlock to coverstitch.
One of the hassles with using a coverstitch machine was converting it from overlock mode to coverstitch mode. I’m thrilled to say there are a few simple steps on the Amber Air S600, and you’re in coverstitch, and it’s equally easy to convert back to overlock.
Start by selecting the appropriate stitch from the menu on the touch screen. Then you’ll find a list of things that need to be changed. Get to know those symbols, and you’re good to go. I’ve got the process memorized; it’s that simple.

The information screen shows the physical setup to convert to the coverstitch.
The first thing on the list is to change the Cutter Cover to the Coverstitch Table, but I do that one last.
So I start by lowering the upper cutter, which is simple. Pull the knob out and rotate the blade downward.

Pull the knob out and rotate it down to disengage the upper cutter.
Ensure the two-thread converter is not engaged. That’s super easy to ensure.

The two-thread converter is not engaged.
You also want to disengage the upper looper, which is also easy, by lowering it to the lowest point and then moving a lever to disengage it. Note the upper cutter is not in the down position in this photo.

The upper looper is in the lowest position.
Move the stitch finger from N to R.

The stitch finger control
Ensure the pressure foot presser is at N for normal.

The presser foot pressure dial
And the last thing is to change the cover, which is equally easy to switch out the cutting cover for the coverstitch table.

The coverstitch table
Lastly, insert the needles in the correct position (also shown on the touch screen), thread the loopers (air threading – yeah) and the needles, and you’re good to go. Not counting the needles, I can switch from one mode to another in less than one minute. LOVE!
Let’s talk a bit more about the coverstitch. You have several options on the Amber Air S600, and all you need to do is select the one you want, change the settings, and start hemming!
The free arm can help when it comes to using the coverstitch in a tight space.

Using the coverstitch in free-arm mode
And this is what the inside of the coverstitch looks like. It does take some practice to get it lined up at the right spot; otherwise, you may have to trim the excess hem with scissors. I took extra care to ensure the edge of my hem was ‘hidden’ inside the stitching line.

The right and wrong sides of a coverstitch hem on a knit garment
There’s a coverstitch hemmer to help with hemming a garment. The trick is pressing the hem, getting it seated correctly in the hemmer, going slow, and checking that the folded fabric hasn’t shifted. With some practice, you’ll be doing professional-looking hems in no time.

The coverstitch hemmer
Using the push pin with the row of holes on the extension table, you can make circular patterns using the cover and chain stitch. Don’t forget those decorative threads!

Using the push pin and the holes on the extension table to get circular patterns
Remember, depending on the look you want, you can use either side of the coverstitch and chain stitches. I recommend using the included knee lift with the coverstitch if you’re going on and off the edge of your fabric. A coverstitch is not as easy to serge off as we do with an overlock stitch, and it’s best to stitch onto a scrap of fabric at the end of each line of stitching. Hence the knee lift will come in hand.

The knee lift
WOW! Who knew you could do all that with a coverstitch? I thought it was only for hemming T-shirts!
This blog post is not a tutorial, and there are many tips and tricks that I haven’t mentioned about the coverstiching and chain stitching. Perhaps, I’ll get another opportunity to share some coverstitch tricks another week.

Husqvarna Viking Amber Air S600
The Husqvarna Viking Amber Air S600 in coverstitch mode is fantastic. Now that I know how easy it is to convert from coverstitch to overlock mode, I’ll use it much more.
Tomorrow, I’ll provide an overview of the most common issues people encounter with their serger. Be sure to stop by!
Have a great day!
Ciao!
This is part 4 of 5 in this series
Go back to part 3: 9 ways to use a serger for your quilting and sewing projects
Go to part 5: 8 things to check if things go wrong when using a serger