A jelly roll quilt gets a fun twist when it’s cut from stash fabrics instead of a pre-cut roll. This post covers pressing and cutting five fabrics, then strip piecing the center. It also covers adding a diagonal checkered border, then basting and quilting. This finished quilt measures 74½″ x 80½″ [189.2 x 204.5cm].
This week’s project: Jelly Roll Quilt with a Twist measures 74½” x 80½”.
materials
fabric
- four fabrics, about 1 yd [0.9m] each, and one fabric, about 1¾ yd [1.6m], for five fabrics in total
- backing fabric, larger than the quilt top
- batting, 90″ x 108″ [228.6 x 274.3cm]
thread
- ivory 50wt cotton thread
notions
- universal needles, size 80/12
- rotary cutter
- 8½″ x 24″ ruler
- 24″ x 36″ cutting mat
- iron
- temporary basting adhesive spray
- mechanical chalk pencil
- tape, for securing the backing
Press and cut the fabrics
Fabrics needn’t match perfectly. Pick five that look good together and enjoy mixing them. Press every piece well before cutting.
Square off each fabric first. Fold it lengthwise, selvages matched, and line the ruler up with the fold. Trim the uneven edge for a clean, straight start. This keeps pieces on grain and the quilt flat. Cut 2½″ strips across the width of fabric. Set aside 6 strips for the inner border and 8 for the binding. A single fabric can cover both, or two can share the job.
Cutting 2½” strips
From five strips of each fabric, cut 82 squares, 2½″ each. That makes 410 squares in all. Chances are only 80 squares fit in five strips, so cut the last two from another strip. Cut nine more strips of each fabric in half, to about 2½″ x 20″. Then cut one of those pieces in half again, and put one short piece aside.
410 (2½” x 2½”) squares stacked by color
Piece the quilt center
Stack the half strips by fabric, side by side, to keep them in order. Start with the shortest piece to offset the joins later. Sew it to a strip from the second stack, then add the third, fourth, and fifth. Repeat the sequence until every strip is joined into one long, colorful strip. Fold it in half lengthwise, right sides together. Sew along the long edge, then press the seam flat.
Sewing strips end-to-end
Skip the usual folding and sewing. Instead, cut eight sections, each 58½″ long. That’s a long measurement, so a floor works better than a table. Square off one end first. Butt three rulers end to end to measure accurately, and weigh them down with a heavy iron. Sew the eight sections together along their long edges. Add the six inner border strips around the center. Start with the sides, then add the top and bottom.
Square off the edge of the strips.
Add the checkered border
Sew the 410 squares into sets of three. Arrange the fabrics so the colors form diagonal lines. Press half the seams in one direction and half in the other, so the seams nest neatly. Make 27, 28, 27, 26, and 26 sets across five columns. Sew 31 sets side by side for the bottom border, then attach it to the quilt. Make the side borders next, working on one side at a time. Audition each layout first, to keep the diagonals flowing. The second side needs 36 sets. The top needs 35, and the remaining side needs 40.
Make sets of threes.
If the corners don’t quite line up, shift a few squares in one corner. A small change restores the flow. A few squares will be left over, so keep them handy for adjustments.
Baste and quilt
Tape the backing to the floor, smooth and taut. Lay the batting on top. Spray the batting, not the fabric, with temporary basting adhesive. Smooth the quilt top over it the same way. Quilt parallel lines along the seams in the center. Quilt diagonal lines across the checkered border for movement. Mark a chalk guideline first if straight lines feel tricky. Test the marker on a scrap before committing. Then sew on the binding.
Quilting diagonal and parallel lines
Any leftover strips make a lovely table runner. Black strips also work well, as an inner or outer border, for extra pop.