Use Silco thread to add more punch to your applique edges by Paul Leger December 28, 2017 written by Paul Leger December 28, 2017 854 Welcome back! When we completed appliqueing our leaves using InvisaFil thread yesterday, the little Joyful Wallhanging is looking more and more ‘joyful’… Today we’ll add nice, puffy, clouds to our quilt top using another WonderFil thread:Silco. Silco thread is a 35wt cotton thread, but, unlike other cotton threads, this one is 100% lint-free. You can get Silco in 766yd [700m] spools in 60 different colors; 30 solid and 30 variegated. Silco a 35wt thread available on solid and variegated colors. Compared to InvisaFil that we used yesterday, Silco will not disappear in the fabric, it will be very visible. Using it for machine applique will add an interesting element to your piece. I love how it blends with the fabric but it leaves the stitch line visible giving the impression of a shadow. If you were to use it to do the blind hem stitch, I would suggest making it a single and not a double as many of us might when using it for applique. To use Silco for a satin stitch, I would select a wider stitch width, adjusting the tightness of the zigzag. That said, the stitch I’m using today is a very simple one, sewing around the applique edge using a simple straight stitch. I’m adding two puffy clouds to my quilt top. I came up with an easy cloud design that, with the help of my photocopier, I was able to make in two sizes. Click on the template below for the printable PDF of these two clouds sizes! 2 cloud shapes, but I encourage you to draw your own. For some applique elements of my quilts, I prefer not to have any raw edges on my applique pieces, so I’ll repeat the process I showed you Tuesday: using lightweight fusible web interfacing (glue on one side only) to make my applique pieces. If you’d prefer raw edges on your clouds, that’s your preference and it’s a creative preference. To get the raw edge look use double sided fusible web. Using the PDF file above trace the clouds onto the non-sticky side of the interfacing. Clouds traced on fusible web interfacing and placed on the right side of the fabric. Trace the cloud shapes on the fusible web interfacing. Once completed place sticky side of the fusible web interfacing on the right side of the fabric (do not iron!) and sew on the traced line. Once you finish sewing, cut around each cloud shape and make a slit through the stabilizer. If there are any inner points on your cloud, cut into the fabric; do not cut past or on the sewn line. Cut fabric where the inner corners are to get a sharper point when flipped inside out. Now, as we did on Tuesday, flip the pieces inside out. Place them where you’d like on the quilt top fusing them in place by pressing with an iron. Position the clouds on the top of your quilt. The moment for a very important question to ask yourself has arrived. Should we machine applique next to the edge of the cloud? This is a personal choice. As in the previous examples (stems, hearts and leaves), I’ll be using the open toe presser foot when stitching these applique pieces to the quilt top. I find this foot so easy to use for machine applique, just reposition the needle and carefully follow the edge of each cloud. You might even want to stitch it by hand. In quilting do what you love best, these are all suggestions for you to consider and explore. Position the needle as close to the edge of the applique shape as you like. I’ve positioned the needle at two different settings to illustrate just a couple of options. Don’t you love options? Adding a second stitch line to add interest to your applique piece is another option. Now that our clouds are stitched in place the quilt top is almost complete. The clouds are appliqued to the background. Tomorrow I’ll be talking about using WonderFil DecoBob thread on this quilt. DecoBob is a machine applique-friendly thread you can use in the bobbin or as the top thread. This is part 4 of 5 in this series. Go back to part 3: When your quilting calls for threads to be invisible, use InvisaFil Go to part 5: Why DecoBob isn’t your average bobbin thread [shareaholic app=”follow_buttons” id=”23735596″] Print this page or save as a PDF 0qs187bfabuluxfree patternsinvisafiljoyful wallhangingsilcothreadstutorialstuttiwallhangingswonderfil threads FacebookTwitterPinterestLinkedinRedditWhatsappTelegramEmail Paul Leger I took my first quilting course in September 1994 in Barrie, Ontario, near the armed forces base where I was stationed. After moving to Ottawa in 1996, I joined my first guild. I took more courses and began to buy quilting books and lots of fabrics. Quilting has become my passion. I have made over 150 more quilts since then, and have never looked back. I now share my knowledge of quilting by teaching and doing presentations, and blogging! previous post 2 tips for pressing seams that save the day and a lot of bulk next post 14 quilt designs: playing with churn dash blocks and Northcott Fabrics YOU MAY ALSO LIKE... Why DecoBob isn’t your average bobbin thread When your quilting calls for threads to be... 1 foolproof method for perfect, smooth and clean... Why WonderFil Tutti thread is so good for... How Accent, Mirage and Spagetti threads highlight appliqued... 1 easy way to add a quilt binding,... Using combinations of 100wt, 80wt, 50wt, 12wt threads... Why using Invisafil thread is best for adding... Piecing with WonderFil DecoBob 80wt thread Leave a Comment Cancel Reply Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Δ This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.