Have you got your first block done? It’s so much fun to see the same blocks using different fabric collections. The calm and serene coloring of Claire’s batiks and the bright colors that Paul chose are stunning in Block 2.
And I get to play with the luscious Blue Stitch collection by Christopher Thompson for Riley Blake Designs, and what can I say – I love this one the most. There’s nothing more classic than a blue and white quilt.
I’ve got more great pressing and sewing tips today, so let’s get started.
I chose a different method to make my flying geese units, and you’ll see why in a minute. I also cut the squares for the HSTs (HSTs) slightly larger so I could trim them down. I’ve identified which pieces are background, and for the rest of the fabrics, I picked fabrics that would provide contrast to the pieces beside each one.
- cut one (1) piece at 4½”
flying geese units
- cut four (4) rectangles 2½” x 4½”
(2 sets of 4 are required)
- cut eight (8) squares 2½”
- cut four (4) rectangles 2½” x 4½” (background)
- cut eight (8) squares at 2½”
- cut four (4) squares of light at 3”
- cut four (4) squares of dark at 3”
- cut four (4) squares at 2½” (background)
- cut four (4) squares at 2½”
As usual, I lay out all the pieces on a small design board to ensure that I cut all the pieces and visualize how the block will look before I sew it together.
I decided that the selvages were too pretty to sit around. As I’m working on the fabrics, I’m cutting off the selvages and thinking of a creative way to use them.
I cut the squares for the HSTs at 3”. Sew a scant ¼” seam on both sides of the drawn line. Cut the units apart, press to the dark, and trim to 2½”. Actually, in hindsight, it would be better to press these to the light. I didn’t do that, but it’ll help to reduce some bulk.
The dark blue fabric I used for the flying geese units is directional, so I cut them as rectangles so all the writing will go in the same orientation. When sewing the squares to the rectangle, you want to sew just slightly outside the drawn line.
That first set of flying geese was simple as the directional fabric was on a rectangle, making it easy to keep the orientation correct. However, in the next set of flying geese, the directional print, is a square. There are four ways to position the square, so it’s easy to position the print in the wrong direction.
Lay the square in the opposite direction to which you want the directional print to go. You can always test by flipping that square back BEFORE YOU SEW to make sure that it’s correct.
Yes, I trim those little corners off, and I KEEP THEM. I’ll be sewing them together and making small HSTs. I might find a use for them along with the selvages!
Here are the two different flying geese units, and you can see the direction of the dark blue fabric is in the correct orientation for both. I need to make four of each of these sets.
The block components are together, and the block is going to look fantastic! At this stage, the fun begins as I love to find the perfect pressing plan that allows me to twirl as many seams as possible (if applicable) and to have all the seams nesting. My goal is to reduce bulk. As I looked at this photo, I just realized that it would have made more sense to press the HSTs to the LIGHT. Perhaps, I needed to start the pressing plan a bit earlier!
Start by sewing the two flying geese units together. Press TWO of the units to the dark unit and two of them to the light unit. You’ll need to manipulate that center point with your finger before following up with some steam from your trusty iron. This finger pressing will get that center seam flat. YES – even if you’re pushing that point back onto itself. A little bit of finger pressing goes a LONG way in making this happen.
Next up is the corner units. I sewed them together like a four-patch. Then I pressed two of the units, so the seams were going clockwise, and two units are going counterclockwise. I keep my four patches attached (with chain piecing) and then layout the two sections on the ironing surface, as shown below. Set the seams with the iron, gently flip the two parts, and press the seams from the front. The seams in this diagram will end up counterclockwise. To press clockwise, start with the pieces in the opposite direction.
Then sew that final seam. To get the seam to twirl on the back, use your seam ripper to RELEASE, not cut the stitches within the seam allowance.
Now I can sew the block together as if it were a nine-patch. The two four-patches pressed clockwise go in opposite corners, with the other two four-patches pressed counterclockwise go in the two remaining corners. Then choose the appropriately pressed flying geese units to fit between so that all seams nest.
And here’s Block 2. It’s beautiful and flat with no bulk at any of the intersections. Just the way I like it!
And should you want to peek at the back, here it is, and YES – all the seams twirl where possible, and all the seams nest to each other. I’m happy!
That’s it for me for Block 2. I’m getting ready to cut Block 3 and can’t wait to share that with you.
Have a great day, and don’t forget to share your photos of your blocks!